Scribble's scribbles
- Thread starter Sibyl
- Start date
Sorry, I didn't know where else to say this:
I sure wish everyone on Shapeways created their own models instead of profiting off of the work of others that freely give their models to the public for non-profit use in rendering software.
Freaking pirates.
Archer Class, anyone?
I guess I can't say this for a fact. I suppose people could create their own models of existing designs...two models from two different people who's model renders on Shapeways look exactly the same, pixel-for-pixel.
THAT is the reason I won't give away my models. I hate to say it, but a few rip-off artists have ruined it for countless other real artists. No, I don't consider myself a real artist. I'm a copycat (for now), but at least I do my own modeling.
[/rant]
I sure wish everyone on Shapeways created their own models instead of profiting off of the work of others that freely give their models to the public for non-profit use in rendering software.
Freaking pirates.
Archer Class, anyone?
I guess I can't say this for a fact. I suppose people could create their own models of existing designs...two models from two different people who's model renders on Shapeways look exactly the same, pixel-for-pixel.
THAT is the reason I won't give away my models. I hate to say it, but a few rip-off artists have ruined it for countless other real artists. No, I don't consider myself a real artist. I'm a copycat (for now), but at least I do my own modeling.
[/rant]
It's been slow-going on my bridge pieces. I spent all day yesterday being tired and unmotivated. The day before, I was sick. I hate days like these.
The modeling is done. I just need to pay close attention to the components of the individual stations. They can deviate slightly from the master layouts.
I don't know if I mentioned it, but it's a sort of a commission. It turns out my deadline has been extended because of the current budget of the person that needs it.
The modeling is done. I just need to pay close attention to the components of the individual stations. They can deviate slightly from the master layouts.
I don't know if I mentioned it, but it's a sort of a commission. It turns out my deadline has been extended because of the current budget of the person that needs it.
You aren't supposed to hide cherry bombs under the heat sink.
Sorry for not posting any updates.
It took a few weeks for me to gather enough energy and motivation to reprogram my custom keyboard shortcuts into Max. The reason they are important is because of my programmable keyboard. I needed to add and change quite a few commands for my keyboard to work properly.
So, that's done.
However, I've had a mental block the last couple of months. Something is preventing me from working in 3d. I'm trying to overcome that. I will be back with more work, but I'm not sure exactly how long.
My goal is to be prototyping action figures and accessories as soon as possible.
Beyond that, I'd love to do some Trek interiors.
It took a few weeks for me to gather enough energy and motivation to reprogram my custom keyboard shortcuts into Max. The reason they are important is because of my programmable keyboard. I needed to add and change quite a few commands for my keyboard to work properly.
So, that's done.
However, I've had a mental block the last couple of months. Something is preventing me from working in 3d. I'm trying to overcome that. I will be back with more work, but I'm not sure exactly how long.
My goal is to be prototyping action figures and accessories as soon as possible.
Beyond that, I'd love to do some Trek interiors.
I have a question about physical models...has anyone done a 1:10 TWOK bridge or Refit E corridor?
I'm really getting into the Art Asylum / Diamond Select Trek figures from TOS, TWOK, and TNG and I'd like to make some sets for them in physical form. The thread about the 1:10 TOS bridge has given me the itch.
Along those same notes, does anyone know of a Refit model that is exactly 10-inches long? This would put in in scale with the Diamond Select figures if it were representing the filming miniature, which is 100-inches long.
Edit--I guess someone has, though I'm not sure of the scale:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/0c/fb/24/0cfb24f531e07afac5a70ae60ba5c5b6.jpg
I'm really getting into the Art Asylum / Diamond Select Trek figures from TOS, TWOK, and TNG and I'd like to make some sets for them in physical form. The thread about the 1:10 TOS bridge has given me the itch.
Along those same notes, does anyone know of a Refit model that is exactly 10-inches long? This would put in in scale with the Diamond Select figures if it were representing the filming miniature, which is 100-inches long.
Edit--I guess someone has, though I'm not sure of the scale:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/0c/fb/24/0cfb24f531e07afac5a70ae60ba5c5b6.jpg
Last edited:
I can't help with your model questions, but I love this console art preview:
The actual modelling looks good, too, but I just really like the off-page arcs that follow the curves of the console panels. It's inviting my imagination to "fill-in-the-blanks" so to speak. Love it!
Here's just a minor preview of what this project is:
A messy workspace is a sign of a creative mind, right?
The actual modelling looks good, too, but I just really like the off-page arcs that follow the curves of the console panels. It's inviting my imagination to "fill-in-the-blanks" so to speak. Love it!
When you build yours are you going to rig in any lighting? With some planning and clever use of materials you could do some neat stuff. For example, in the photo, do you see that triple row of buttons on the nav console that was so prominent in the film? If you printed all those buttons with the bezel they sit on as one piece using a transparent plastic, you could then paint just the bezel black, mount it to the nav console with an LED inside the console. Would be a neat effect.I believe this bridge was done in 1:10-scale, but I can't seem to find the originator to give credit. I'm sorry.
I'd like to accomplish something like this.
This was built by a guy named David James. Here you go.I believe this bridge was done in 1:10-scale, but I can't seem to find the originator to give credit. I'm sorry.
I'd like to accomplish something like this.
I haven't gotten that far in my thinking yet, but it would be nice.
Thank you!
I took a sanity break. I was beginning to lose it for various reasons, including what's happening in the world and the fact that I had completely run out of medication with no hope of getting more at the time.
Sanity and enthusiasm are back, full force!
From here on out this is going to be a mixture of rendering and physical objects. That's right, I'm getting a (fairly large) 3d Printer!
I'll finally be able to make that bridge dome from TMP! Okay, I could've done it at any time with a little foam, plaster, and a spin jig, but I'm lazy. Those door alcoves were going to be a pain in the rear. I also wasn't sure how I'd do the lights/speakers/greeblies on the ceiling. I probably would've gone to Shapeways for those.
In other threads, I've mentioned that I'll soon have this house to myself. That hasn't quite happened yet, but I'm hoping with a combination of the printer, my modeling skills, as well as resources like Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory will help out.
One of the FULL-SIZE items I'd really love to make would be a more accurate tri-dimensional chess set than the old Franklin Mint one. I had one, but it was kind of disappointingly small and the pieces are COMPLETELY wrong, not to mention the entire thing was the wrong color (I mean, I like blue--it's my favorite color--but in the series it was RED).
I have a pro item I'd like to do, too, but there's one part that I'll need some advice with: the blade on the D'k Tahg. I'd like to make it retractable as the original prop from Trek III was (stunt knife) as well as making the side blades pop out with a button, but here's the thing...I have no idea how to electroplate plastic. Can that be done at home, or would I need that done by professionals?
Okay, what I'm mostly going to be focusing on with my art will be action figures, accessories, and sets for dioramas.
M (I forgot how to tag you...), is there any way you could change the title of this thread to 'Scribbles' scribbles'?
I'm back. Stay tuned...the first of my printers will be here within a couple of weeks.
Sanity and enthusiasm are back, full force!
From here on out this is going to be a mixture of rendering and physical objects. That's right, I'm getting a (fairly large) 3d Printer!
I'll finally be able to make that bridge dome from TMP! Okay, I could've done it at any time with a little foam, plaster, and a spin jig, but I'm lazy. Those door alcoves were going to be a pain in the rear. I also wasn't sure how I'd do the lights/speakers/greeblies on the ceiling. I probably would've gone to Shapeways for those.In other threads, I've mentioned that I'll soon have this house to myself. That hasn't quite happened yet, but I'm hoping with a combination of the printer, my modeling skills, as well as resources like Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory will help out.
One of the FULL-SIZE items I'd really love to make would be a more accurate tri-dimensional chess set than the old Franklin Mint one. I had one, but it was kind of disappointingly small and the pieces are COMPLETELY wrong, not to mention the entire thing was the wrong color (I mean, I like blue--it's my favorite color--but in the series it was RED).
I have a pro item I'd like to do, too, but there's one part that I'll need some advice with: the blade on the D'k Tahg. I'd like to make it retractable as the original prop from Trek III was (stunt knife) as well as making the side blades pop out with a button, but here's the thing...I have no idea how to electroplate plastic. Can that be done at home, or would I need that done by professionals?
Okay, what I'm mostly going to be focusing on with my art will be action figures, accessories, and sets for dioramas.
M (I forgot how to tag you...), is there any way you could change the title of this thread to 'Scribbles' scribbles'?
I'm back. Stay tuned...the first of my printers will be here within a couple of weeks.
I'll gladly do that. Great title!
It is possible to tag me with this code:
Code:
[USER=8221]M[/USER]
You can just use an at-sign: @M.
Oh, phooey! Except it doesn't work, I guess because M is too short a name!
Oh, phooey! Except it doesn't work, I guess because M is too short a name!
Unfortunately that doesn't seem to work with one-letter usernames.
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