Well, I was worried that if any of the ships crew had to use that particular escape pod it may have been jammed.
Building the Eaglemoss Enterprise-D partwork
- Thread starter Leathco
- Start date
Well, I was worried that if any of the ships crew had to use that particular escape pod it may have been jammed.
Health and safety first. Good man.
I realize I'm about 27 pages late to the party, but did you think about putting variable resistors (potentiometers) on the individual sections of lights to dim certain areas (like the cockpit to prevent light bleed) to make it more realistic and not look like every Q in the continuum is showing up instantaneously on the Enterprise?
The model is lovely. My gripe (not with your work) is always the lack of interior details. I have searched (in vain) for a model of the Munificent-class frigate from Star Wars that was bigger than 18 inches. I want one that's like four feet long so I can take it apart to show off the interiors (or be able to see them through the windows). I realize that this would make the D triple the model size, but I love actual physical models much more than CGI and appreciate a good diorama-style mockup. I mean, who has room for a six foot long Enterprise D?
Lovely work, by the way. You're a lot more patient than I am. I am looking forward to some fan-made CGI-enhanced shots of the finished product. lmao
The model is lovely. My gripe (not with your work) is always the lack of interior details. I have searched (in vain) for a model of the Munificent-class frigate from Star Wars that was bigger than 18 inches. I want one that's like four feet long so I can take it apart to show off the interiors (or be able to see them through the windows). I realize that this would make the D triple the model size, but I love actual physical models much more than CGI and appreciate a good diorama-style mockup. I mean, who has room for a six foot long Enterprise D?
Lovely work, by the way. You're a lot more patient than I am. I am looking forward to some fan-made CGI-enhanced shots of the finished product. lmao
Is there a general modelling thread on the BBS? I’m crazy for building and painting little models and it’d be cool if there was a thread somewhere where I could see other posters work and show my own?
I searched around but I’m sort of surprised to find nothing of that ilk.
I searched around but I’m sort of surprised to find nothing of that ilk.
Is there a general modelling thread on the BBS? I’m crazy for building and painting little models and it’d be cool if there was a thread somewhere where I could see other posters work and show my own?
I searched around but I’m sort of surprised to find nothing of that ilk.
You're looking for the Fan Art forum in general, and probably this thread in particular.
This board is a little odd compared to others in that there isn’t much merchandise discussion, there’s more than there used to be, but it’s largely contained to the 4-5 threads in this forum (and I guess the Lit forum for books).Is there a general modelling thread on the BBS? I’m crazy for building and painting little models and it’d be cool if there was a thread somewhere where I could see other posters work and show my own?
I searched around but I’m sort of surprised to find nothing of that ilk.
I’m also surprised that there isn’t much costume discussion, particularly with how popular it is with Trekkies at large.
Issue 23 parts 84-87 complete. No problems to report,l just the usual care and attention when fitting panels and screwing parts together. These pictures really do not show the true scale of just how big this thing is!
Navigational deflector fish installed, be careful not to screw this into place too tightly or the screw bed/lips *may* snap off. Only screw until the screws ‘catch’ that ‘tight’ point. Do not over tighten.
The saucer section does not fit on to the Stardrive section just yet, though for demonstration purposes I mounted the saucer on a box.
Navigational deflector fish installed, be careful not to screw this into place too tightly or the screw bed/lips *may* snap off. Only screw until the screws ‘catch’ that ‘tight’ point. Do not over tighten.
The saucer section does not fit on to the Stardrive section just yet, though for demonstration purposes I mounted the saucer on a box.
I don't recall the lights on the model used for the intro being that bright...lol Any way to add a vairable diode to trim the brightness?
I was thinking the same thing. Plus, the nacelles aren't two hundred + feet away from the body of the stardrive section like they would be in real life. I think some of it is the reflection off the body of the ship itself. That's why I suggested a variable diode--you'd be able to turn it up for display, and then dial it down a bit for doing some action shots of it (so the camera doesn't pick up that extra brightness/reflectivity).
This company needs to make a bigger model. lol I want to be able to pull apart each deck and see a fully-accurate dioarama of the interior. lmao Yeah, yeah...a man can dream, can't he? Do they have Voyager as a regular model as well, or only the Galaxy-class?
This company needs to make a bigger model. lol I want to be able to pull apart each deck and see a fully-accurate dioarama of the interior. lmao Yeah, yeah...a man can dream, can't he? Do they have Voyager as a regular model as well, or only the Galaxy-class?
They didn't have LEDs back then of course. When leds are photographed they seem even brighter and bluer to me....but I'm person they look a little more white. The tomy Enterprise while bright don't have a blue tone due to the way they did the windows.
IIRC, “white” LED’s aren’t white at all, but blue with an amber filter that shifts the light frequency to a simulated white. As a result, not all white bulbs are created equal, and generally look “cooler” towards the blue end of the spectrum. There are “warm” white LED’s which have a hint of yellow to them, making them appear more like traditional incandescent bulbs without the heat and higher energy consumption. I prefer these for this reason. The closest thing you can get to “true white” are the 3-color RGB LED’s, which require some finessing with a circuit board and 3 potentiometers to get the desired custom white levels.
Is there any way to dial down the brightness for photography purposes? Or does it have to be a totally post-process effect? I mean, the blue-tint to the color looks cool and makes sense from the front of the nacelles; it's just the brightness throws off the FOV and makes it look like a model rather than an actual life-size ship.
I might be thinking of changing the depth of field, as well, like the old school HO scale model railroads shots they'd make look life-size by opening up disposable cameras and dialing open the aperature or something to make the focal point way farther out.
I might be thinking of changing the depth of field, as well, like the old school HO scale model railroads shots they'd make look life-size by opening up disposable cameras and dialing open the aperature or something to make the focal point way farther out.
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