He's pointing out that the Defiant is scaled too big, which it is.
Being that we've never got an official size for the Defiant, I assume the kit makers simply scaled it small enough that looks "almost" the right size, while still big enough to light and detail appropriately.
It's still very small.
I was wondering when someone would post that meme…
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hackaday.com
That's interesting. Seeing that attempt at a Daedalus reminded me that I've always kinda liked the Daedalus. If I ever get into 3D printing, or if I can find a place anywhere near me that does printing, I've always thought this particular version would be a fun build that would look great with lighting.An interesting use of a Death Star model—and they call Daedalus little
I love the direction this is going
Kelvin era enterprise B
I bought a Cerritos and was disappointed with it and decided to use it and another Grissom to bash thus thing.
That's interesting. Seeing that attempt at a Daedalus reminded me that I've always kinda liked the Daedalus. If I ever get into 3D printing, or if I can find a place anywhere near me that does printing, I've always thought this particular version would be a fun build that would look great with lighting.
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Apparently that's a possibility even now:
That looks cool!Was feeling a little unsure of my darker silver being enough of a contrasting colour compared to the lighter, slightly bronze colour I'm going with for the overall hull, so I did a little test. Surprisingly, I'm pretty happy with the results.
The two pics of the end result are under different lighting conditions. I think once I get the whole hull covered, it'll really "pop."
That looks great! Thanks for the breakdown. Do you do anything to the masking tape to make it less sticky? The last time I tried doing some airbrushing and masking, the tape just pulled my paint clean off. It was very frustrating!Was feeling a little unsure of my darker silver being enough of a contrasting colour compared to the lighter, slightly bronze colour I'm going with for the overall hull, so I did a little test. Surprisingly, I'm pretty happy with the results.
The two pics of the end result are under different lighting conditions. I think once I get the whole hull covered, it'll really "pop."
I only use Tamiya tape. I've never once had it pull the paint. It certainly cost more than regular masking tape, but it's worth every penny. I also never put tape on any paint that hasn't cured for at least 24 hours. With the case of this kit, I'm also using vinyl masks.
The many stages of painting the lower half of the Saucer. ....
First primer...
Followed by blackening for light blocking...
Followed by a reflective silver for light blocking...
Followed by specifically blackening areas where the plastic is thinner and light will absolutely come through....
Followed by finally getting the base coat on, which still looks a little blochy after 3 coats!?
Thankfully it's mostly the light catching areas where the texture is a little off because of a cheap air brush and a lazy painter....
besides, it's the darker shade of silver that will be masked off for aztecing and mostly covered by the primary colour that's lighter and slightly bronze, so it should look fine in the end once I put a gloss coat of clear onto her.
Progess!!
Yeah, it most cases. Definitely with the NX-01. I've always wanted a 1:350 scale NX-01, but being a 20 year old kit, they were priced very very high, and I couldn't bring myself to spend that kinda money. Luckily, last year Dennis sent me one that he had stashed away! I feel I owe it to both him and myself to do a good job.
