This is off thread, but that's a very sillly thing for the reviewer to say. If it's not the Enterprise (and let's face it, it is), then it's at least a ship of that type being built on the ground. And this is a story, not real life, so why have Kirk stare longingly at the Lexington? Or Constellation? Come on. Besides, we're all over that now. That "where was it built?" argument was soooo months ago.
I may be late to that particular argument, but why exactly was it a problem for people that the Enterprise was built on the ground?
Because
(1) Roddenberry/Berman-era Trek lore supposedly had it that starships in general, and the Enterprise in particular, were constructed in orbital shipyards (I say "supposedly" because I can't think of any canonical evidence of this offhand), and
(2) from a logistical standpoint it would seem to make more sense to assemble a ship that size in orbit, than to build it on a planet and have to launch it into space. There's also the potential for launch-related damages to consider, something NASA found out the hard way a few years ago with the shuttle Columbia.