Discussion in 'Miscellaneous' started by valkyrie013, Jul 22, 2021.
Oh.......... OK well I wondered if it was a person name or the ship itself
I love Akiras and Oberths
Since the last one got locked I thought we might try a second attempt at this one but broaden the scope to include anything that can be displayed on a desk or shelf as a model. So traditional model kits, die cast kits (of which I did tons in the past) and anything construction related like legos.
I will start with a few pictures. First off Lego Apple Mac and a model kit of a CNC milling machine.
That instrument panel on the CNC actuallly does swing in and out like the real one but I don't have the skills for painting such tiny details like the buttons and the sticker that was intended for the panel got torn in unpacking.
Hi @Gingerbread Demon . Sorry, I'm not sure what you're referring to when you reference the other thread being locked. It looks to me like the model building thread is still open, and is still well within the one-year limit to be considered "active". As such, I will merge this thread into that one.
Please know that when we merge threads like this, it's just intended to avoid a proliferation of multiple threads on the same general topic. Obviously, if another thread with the same topic had gone for a year or more with no new posts, then starting a new thread would be fine.
Oh there was a thread just recently that got locked, that's why I did the post and yeah merging is fine sorry for making it a new thread.
It was this thread I was referring to
Oh, OK, sorry, I didn't realize you were referring to a thread in a different forum.
Two more models I rediscovered in my cupboard I made these over 10 years ago 1/18 scale die cast model by Bburago, not even sure if they are still in business as they moved production to China and the quality changed almost overnight. Ferrari 550 Maranello and Mercedes Benz 500K Roadster.
A question for the hobbyists specializing in injection molded polystyrene assembly kits...
I realize a product like Tamiya's surface primer (grey or white) would be the better choice for coating a styrene kit before applying the colored layers, but...what are the downsides of substituting something like Rust-Oleum's flat gray primer if the Tamiya item is not available? Is it too thick, filling the recessed regions of the plastic and thus "burying" the detail? Does it contain compounds similar to acetone that can actually soften the plastic, again, destroying detail? Does it react adversely to hobbyists paints be they enamel or acrylic based. Or, on a more positive note, is it a viable alternative?
I ask because there are no dedicated hobby shops in town. In fact, the closest one is across the state line about an hour's drive and like most of us, I've trying to be frugal with my gas consumption. Yes, I realize I can order online, but that choice is a bit more expensive. If Rust-Oleum is acceptable, in 10 minutes (if the traffic is slow), I can reach the local Walmart and purchase a rattle can while shopping for other sundries. But I don't want to risk damaging a kit, hence my inquiry.
Lots of folks used Future floor wax to coat their models--but it can yellow from light.
Now we have a coating that heals in the light
There is also new glue out there for woodworkers
Kits through the years
I thought the "Future" floor wax meant as a final "sealer" after all painting and decal application was completed. That's almost the far opposite from from I'm asking. Primer is the first thing applied after gluing and putty work and before painting.
I've use Rust-Oleum primer as well as automotive primer (sand able) with excellent results. Multiple very thin even coats is the key. If you go really heavy on the primer coat, solvents used in the primer will soften and attack the styrene. Thin even multiple coats and you'll be good to go. I usually use sand-able automobile primer, because I'll sand with 400grit or 600grit sandpaper between coats if I want a perfect finished paint job (sand out the crap/dust that invariably gets into the paint when spraying in the garage). Prime away!
ETA: Yes, Future Acrylic floor sealer goes on after the decals go on to seal the decals and lock them in. Then you spray on a clear 'dull coat' to get rid of the extremely shinny finish.
Thanks for the feedback. That's good to know. True, multiple thin coats is usually better whatever the "paint". I was just concerned that even a light application might act like an "acid" upon the plastic.
Most put on a gloss coat before decals and panel lining as it makes it easier to clean up the liner and prevent silvering/air bubbles under decals .. Then another gloss coat over decals then a Matt semi Matt coat as a final if needed.
For fans of the Beyond 1701-A:
the 1/650 AMT
36 missile set
The missile set is neat but I'd love a larger model of something like the old polaris or something with internal parts so you can pretend to disarm it like Bond does in TSWLM that would be neat.
The Soviet ones don’t look like Vick’s drawings
Ooh on a tangent I used to have the computer game Dissassembly 3D and one item in the game was a hellfire missie
Oy...! I am getting so old! I remember being able to buy that kit for roughly 3 bucks, maybe 3 and a half!
Your concern is correct. Edges of decals not secured may be 'burned off' by some overcoats, if the edge is printed then....
Best to make sure decals are totally secure all around before over-coating by applying a decal set solution. I do not use a strength higher than #2 or it might cause melting too.
Here is a great Phase II build:
A great kitbash
Not plastic but thought this was kind of neat.
Separate names with a comma.