The needle and thread, thread.

[K'Ehleyr]

So son wanted a tail coat for Christmas ~ he is 'dandying up'! Mother Scrooge saw one on Ebay considerably more reasonable than others but it needs a new lining. No probs she thought and pottered off to buy cherry red satin to re-line said coat and now is looking at the project and that is it ~ looking, just looking, well pondering and looking.

I have a rough plan of making a pattern out of greaseproof paper of the old lining, but cannot cut old lining out because it has padding in. So plan B is to overline it.

So cut out pattern, cut out red lining, machine sew together in a kind of 'inner satin coat' kind of way, then 'wonderweb' it in and then hand sew the rest

Does anyone have any ideas, tips, shortcuts please

...and no disparaging remarks about how I shouldn't have been so cheap in the first place ~ at least he gets an original

 

[Holdfast]

Replacing linings is one of the most time-consuming tailoring tasks. If you ask an alterations tailor to do it, it's easily one of the most expensive jobs they do! So make sure sonny-boy appreciates the time & effort you put into it!

I can't advise on HOW to do it exactly. I'd have thought using the old lining as the pattern would have been the best way, but if you can't take it out....

Linings are complicated - they have pleats in the back, extra material in the sleeves, and other not-so-obvious problems to negotiate. I suppose one option might to to tack together your paper pattern to test in 3D that it actually works. Or go the whole hog and make a muslin test lining.

 

[K'Ehleyr]

Replacing linings is one of the most time-consuming tailoring tasks. If you ask an alterations tailor to do it, it's easily one of the most expensive jobs they do! So make sure sonny-boy appreciates the time & effort you put into it!

I can't advise on HOW to do it exactly. I'd have thought using the old lining as the pattern would have been the best way, but if you can't take it out....

Linings are complicated - they have pleats in the back, extra material in the sleeves, and other not-so-obvious problems to negotiate. I suppose one option might to to tack together your paper pattern to test in 3D that it actually works. Or go the whole hog and make a muslin test lining.

I knew I could rely on you for empathy, thank you Holdy

I think I have enough lining to tack together a test and if it doesn't work do another. It's a labour of love (or rather a labour of saving lots of money and being individual) and unfortunately 17yr old sons do not appreciate that ~ I knew I should have gone for a 4 pack of alco-pops

I do anticipate a ripping sound the first time he reaches forward if this is not done properly
Right, going to start now...

 

[JustKate]

Wow. What a good mom.

Anyway, I like the idea of making a test lining...

I wonder if it would help to get a really beaten-up second-hand jacket that's the same size but that's unsalvageable/cheap enough that you won't have any compunction about ripping the lining out? That way, you could at least get a better idea how it's constructed, and it might help you with that test lining.

I have a fabulous red wool jacket that the lining has worn out on - I have contemplated replacing the lining, but then I look at it, and I always end up shaking my head and hanging it back up in the closet. So good luck to you! I'm not a good seamstress, though.

 

[Holdfast]

I knew I could rely on you for empathy, thank you Holdy

I'm just impressed your son wants a tailcoat.

 

[trampledamage]

If the current lining is still complete even though it needs replacing, then you should be able to see where there are darts or pleats sewn in - unpick those specific sections and see how much extra you need.

Alternatively, take out the old lining, and either replace both the lining and the padding or flatten it, stitch your new lining to the old one and then stitch the whole kit and caboodle back in again. If you go the second route make sure you use the absolute minimum of seam allowance and extra fabric because that extra layer (even just satin) can make a big difference to the fit of the sleeve.

(this could all be complete rubbish, it's been a long time since I sewed)

 

[K'Ehleyr]

Wow. What a good mom.

Anyway, I like the idea of making a test lining...

I wonder if it would help to get a really beaten-up second-hand jacket that's the same size but that's unsalvageable/cheap enough that you won't have any compunction about ripping the lining out? That way, you could at least get a better idea how it's constructed, and it might help you with that test lining.

I have a fabulous red wool jacket that the lining has worn out on - I have contemplated replacing the lining, but then I look at it, and always end up I shaking my head and hanging it back up in the closet. So good luck to you! I'm not a good seamstress, though.

Thanks Kate, though I feel like 'bitten of a little bit too much than she can chew' Mum at the mo.
Really good idea with the likewise jacket but this thing has padding in the most unusual places (see pic of back) . But I've got this far...

Coat as was...

took it apart...

really not sure how to get round that pocket thing yet.

Or the back...

Made a pattern and this is the fabric...

Am going for the fabric now! Woopah

If it works I'm going to pursuade you to do your jacket too


Holdfast ~ So am I!

Thanks Snow. As you'll see from pic of back I fear to take out the lining and the padding. Will take note of minimum allowance though.

Just going to cut and tack a practice run...

ETA: Oh I just know I'm going to do it inside out...

 

[K'Ehleyr]

Have just uttered the words "Oh where's my pin cushion" to myself.
I didn't even know I had a pin cushion...

 

[melancholymecha]

good luck! I only sew stuff for my dolls. If I make a mistake or something is off, they dont complain about it.

 

[K'Ehleyr]

good luck! I only sew stuff for my dolls. If I make a mistake or something is off, they dont complain about it.

I've cut the fabric now but called it a night on tacking! (It is 2am!)
I'm really excited now rather than scared ~ have even cut a square of fabric to make a 'kerchief' to poke out of breast pocket!
At least I'm doing this 2 weeks in advance instead of staying up until 6am Christmas day to finish it
Giving myself plenty of time to buy new pressies if I totally mess this up!

 

[trampledamage]

Good thinking! I was up til 3am the two nights before my wedding finishing my dress. I had an emergency spare bought just to be on the safe side.

Do you know anyone who's about the same torso size as your son? It'd be worth getting them to try on the coat, that way you can make alterations if needed.

The great thing about doing things yourself is that you can tweak it however you need - regardless of what the pattern/instructions say

 

[K'Ehleyr]

Good thinking! I was up til 3am the two nights before my wedding finishing my dress. I had an emergency spare bought just to be on the safe side.

Do you know anyone who's about the same torso size as your son? It'd be worth getting them to try on the coat, that way you can make alterations if needed.

The great thing about doing things yourself is that you can tweak it however you need - regardless of what the pattern/instructions say

Oh nightmare, am going to get married in jeans (elasticated waist ones at that!)

I'm going to go with the ' being generous and putting darts in' idea. I did surreptiously measure his chest on the pretence of buying him thermal vests for winter, so it should do.

I'm sure I will be tweaking for a couple of weeks ~ didn't find my pin cushion but did find a ... bugger it too much baileys and concentrating and my minds gone... the thing you put on your finger... Ahh thimble

Am going to Mothers to fire up the ancient sewing machine ('tis powered by 2 gerbils I believe) on Monday, will update ~ hopefully with tale of successfull tail coat

 

[MANT!]

My gosh...Dandified?..perhaps he wants to steam-punk it? ahh what the hell..

I immediately thought about the following..

http://questionablecontent.net/archive.php

 

[K'Ehleyr]

^ Fantastic! But if he wants a monocle he's on his own to get that. And currently he only owns a bowler hat, which really doesn't go with the tails

He's being individual and I'm proud of him doing it.
Sometimes you just have to put yourself out there as you are and see what happens.

 

[Holdfast]

My gosh...Dandified?..perhaps he wants to steam-punk it? ahh what the hell..

I immediately thought about the following..

http://questionablecontent.net/archive.php

That's awesome.

^ Fantastic! But if he wants a monocle he's on his own to get that. And currently he only owns a bowler hat, which really doesn't go with the tails

Ebay's full of used toppers in need of some serious TLC.

BTW, monocles are coming back into vogue. Vision Express have started restocking them. No, I'm not kidding. Seriously. Coming to a High Street near you soon.

 

[JustKate]

BTW, monocles are coming back into vogue. Vision Express have started restocking them. No, I'm not kidding. Seriously. Coming to a High Street near you soon.

I heard this on National Public Radio (here in the U.S.) just yesterday, but the story seemed a little unclear as to whether it was monocles or pince nez that were back in vogue. Or both? Monocles was the word that was used, and the examples (Charlie McCarthy, Mr. Peanut) all involved monocles but the description was somewhat less clear.

 

[Holdfast]

BTW, monocles are coming back into vogue. Vision Express have started restocking them. No, I'm not kidding. Seriously. Coming to a High Street near you soon.

I heard this on National Public Radio (here in the U.S.) just yesterday, but the story seemed a little unclear as to whether it was monocles or pince nez that were back in vogue. Or both? Monocles was the word that was used, and the examples (Charlie McCarthy, Mr. Peanut) all involved monocles but the description was somewhat less clear.

No, it IS monocles!

 

[JustKate]

^ You're just amazed that I even know what a pince nez is (or is it pince nez are?). I owe it all to Dorothy Sayers. Oh, and Woodrow Wilson.

Oh, my God - I just found several websites offering pince nez for sale, too! Eek! What's next? Spats?

 

[An Officer]

The comments are even better than the article:

What wonderful news! This splendidly functional affectation should receive our undivided support. A monocle ‘hurled in disgust and surprise’ from the orbit is a powerful, elegant and timeless gesture.

 

[Holdfast]

^ You're just amazed that I even know what a pince nez is (or is it pince nez are?).

My dear lady, these days I fully expect such knowledge from you!

I first heard of them when reading the Sherlock Holmes short story "The Golden Pince-Nez" as a child. I had a worrying upbringing...

Eek! What's next? Spats?

A guy on one of the clothes forums I read actually made himself a pair of these a while back. Even for us clothes obsessives, it raised eyebrows...

The comments are even better than the article:

What wonderful news! This splendidly functional affectation should receive our undivided support. A monocle ‘hurled in disgust and surprise’ from the orbit is a powerful, elegant and timeless gesture.

Gotta love the Telegraph's readers.