Building the USS Enterprise in Blender 3D
- Thread starter scifieric
- Start date
Eric,
Here's my detailing of the shuttle bay doors, using your tutorial. https://www.deviantart.com/irishman...-WIP-81-765409866?ga_submit_new=10:1537831680
You'll notice some other issues with the secondary hull smoothing, some light leak happening from inside the shuttle bay, due to some positioning I'm still working out. I'm planning on finishing the interior of the shuttle bay, too, but I wanted to get that close-up camera shot of the details of the bay door, so that I could share it with you.
Here's my detailing of the shuttle bay doors, using your tutorial. https://www.deviantart.com/irishman...-WIP-81-765409866?ga_submit_new=10:1537831680
You'll notice some other issues with the secondary hull smoothing, some light leak happening from inside the shuttle bay, due to some positioning I'm still working out. I'm planning on finishing the interior of the shuttle bay, too, but I wanted to get that close-up camera shot of the details of the bay door, so that I could share it with you.
I think that looks BEAUTIFUL!Eric,
Here's my detailing of the shuttle bay doors, using your tutorial. https://www.deviantart.com/irishman20/art/New-Enterprise-WIP-81-765409866?ga_submit_new=10:1537831680
You'll notice some other issues with the secondary hull smoothing, some light leak happening from inside the shuttle bay, due to some positioning I'm still working out. I'm planning on finishing the interior of the shuttle bay, too, but I wanted to get that close-up camera shot of the details of the bay door, so that I could share it with you.
Oh, THAT'S a good rule!That's pretty impressive!
Simple rule: If you're post includes the words "smoothing" then it should also include a wireframe.
That's pretty impressive!
Simple rule: If you're post includes the words "smoothing" then it should also include a wireframe.
It's okay, Tallguy! Even though I'm very curious to see what you could recommend, I'm not really going to keep that version of the secondary hull, as I'm going to try Eric's approach to doing the fantail undercut.
I'm most grateful for the offer of help, though.
Brian
That's pretty impressive!
Simple rule: If you're post includes the words "smoothing" then it should also include a wireframe.
Tallguy,
Thanks so much for your kind words, although the only thing impressive here is my basic ability to follow Eric's directions.
To go a bit more into detail about my smoothing problems in the secondary hull, I'll say that I've learned that no matter which technique I use to make the fantail and shuttle bay details - and I've used both knife project and boolean - there is lots of cleaning up afterwards!I do have a specific question for you about your method for cutting windows: why do you turn your boolean object to parallel the angle of the hull that it's creating a window in?
To give it the proper dimensions to your cutting object. If it were horizontal on a sloped surface, the dimensions would be off. Then again, going purely from the drawings, it would be logical to leave your cutter in its initial orientation.
*WIth the caveat that you're cutting rectangular openings.
Circles, ovoids, or curved openings, if you would like them to retain their curvature, would need to be aligned to match the surfaces to be cut.
*WIth the caveat that you're cutting rectangular openings.
Circles, ovoids, or curved openings, if you would like them to retain their curvature, would need to be aligned to match the surfaces to be cut.
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Tallguy,
Thanks so much for your kind words, although the only thing impressive here is my basic ability to follow Eric's directions.
Now, where is that "Make Art" button I keep hearing about??? Doesn't every program(me) have it now???
Scribble got this right. To keep the shape I want. Save your model then cut a window boolean towards the top without turning the window. You'll find it doesn't look right at all.
Perfectly stated.
Oh, I NEED that button!
I noticed that you were playing with different film stock while creating your materials in these videos. Have you played around with changing your camera from 35mm to 18mm?
I recall reading in one of the threads about 18mm being the one that was used in the original series, for exterior shots of the Enterprise.
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That's interesting. Would the same hold true for shots of the D-7?
I have been looking for that information for YEARS and never found it.
I must say that I'm surprised. 18mm film would have been a little better than home film, but not by much. That's very interesting. Now, if I only knew the company and specific type of film! I'm dying to give it a try!
I would love to know as well!
In my efforts to track back where I read that, I've found a second article that might add to our awareness of what they did during the production of the series. This American Cinematographer article from October 20, 2016, says that an 18mm lens was sometimes used to create depth on the live action sets. https://ascmag.com/articles/star-trek-50-part-iv-tos-meets-the-next-generation .
Success! Here is the October 13, 2016, article from the same publication: https://ascmag.com/articles/star-trek-50-part-i-original-series-effects, where they mention that "Film Effects was given the assignment to carry on with the fine work started by The Anderson Company, in the photography of the space ship U.S.S. Enterprise. Two-foot and twelve-foot models were used, the latter fully equipped with interior and exterior lights, and twin motors emitting flashing multi-colored light effects, spinning on the noses of the engine nacelles. Most of the apparent motion of the ship was produced by the camera’s travel forward and back. All motions were motorized – the dolly travel, the camera boom raising or lowering, the tripod head panning or tilting, and the lens zooming forward or back. In addition, the Enterprise, mounted on a shaft attached to a tilting and panning tripod head could execute certain remotely controlled motions which, when combined with the camera’s actions, could carry out practically any type of maneuver. The use of an 18mm lens made it possible to accentuate the speed of travel as well as retain an adequate depth of field."
Food for thought...
Success! Here is the October 13, 2016, article from the same publication: https://ascmag.com/articles/star-trek-50-part-i-original-series-effects, where they mention that "Film Effects was given the assignment to carry on with the fine work started by The Anderson Company, in the photography of the space ship U.S.S. Enterprise. Two-foot and twelve-foot models were used, the latter fully equipped with interior and exterior lights, and twin motors emitting flashing multi-colored light effects, spinning on the noses of the engine nacelles. Most of the apparent motion of the ship was produced by the camera’s travel forward and back. All motions were motorized – the dolly travel, the camera boom raising or lowering, the tripod head panning or tilting, and the lens zooming forward or back. In addition, the Enterprise, mounted on a shaft attached to a tilting and panning tripod head could execute certain remotely controlled motions which, when combined with the camera’s actions, could carry out practically any type of maneuver. The use of an 18mm lens made it possible to accentuate the speed of travel as well as retain an adequate depth of field."
Food for thought...
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18mm lens, not film. I'll also guess that it was used on the 3 footer, not the 11. Specifically the whoosh shots. Which I believe is something that Remastered and several can reproductions of those shots got wrong. It's what gives you that last "snap" as the ship leaves the frame.
