More 3D Printing

[MadMan1701A]

They are actually pretty big, I think that the whole secondary hull is about 7-8 inches long. I may have to cut part of that off though, since I can only scan a 6" tall object with my makerbot scanner.

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It's not that good for fine detail, but I should be able to get the shape of where the pylons will be connecting pretty close.

The scanner doesn't work well at all with tiny things, unfortunately.

-Ricky

 

[fireproof78]

They are actually pretty big, I think that the whole secondary hull is about 7-8 inches long. I may have to cut part of that off though, since I can only scan a 6" tall object with my makerbot scanner.

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It's not that good for fine detail, but I should be able to get the shape of where the pylons will be connecting pretty close.

The scanner doesn't work well at all with tiny things, unfortunately.

-Ricky

That makes more sense to me. I was imaging a bit of smaller pieces and grebbles and the like

Is that easier or harder than just modeling on the computer?

 

[MadMan1701A]

Harder, actually. Once it scans the object, there is still a lot of repair work that has to go in to the model to make it printable. I've found it more useful to scan something just for the general shape, and add detail to it after.

Or, just use the scan as reference, as I'll do with the Enterprise parts.

-Ricky

 

[Atolm]

So Awesome! And I love seeing the process

 

[MadMan1701A]

Happy Easter evening, everyone!
I've got a lot of Paint WIPs going on this weekend; I'm trying to get some of these older projects finally finished up and out of here.

The Outlaw Star I think is coming along especially well, and I can't wait to paint the glow-in-the-dark phasers on the Enterprise and TARDIS display.

Speaking of which, should I have red phaser beams, or blue ones?

Hopefully (fingers crossed!) I'll get a couple of these all finished this week.

-Ricky

 

[Atolm]

Really love the Outlaw Star! The rest are cool too ... lol

 

[fireproof78]

Harder, actually. Once it scans the object, there is still a lot of repair work that has to go in to the model to make it printable. I've found it more useful to scan something just for the general shape, and add detail to it after.

Or, just use the scan as reference, as I'll do with the Enterprise parts.

-Ricky

How big of an object can you scan? It sounds like it could make replicating models (or missing parts) a little easier, but that's me and I have no experience in this field.

Happy Easter evening, everyone!
I've got a lot of Paint WIPs going on this weekend; I'm trying to get some of these older projects finally finished up and out of here.

The Outlaw Star I think is coming along especially well, and I can't wait to paint the glow-in-the-dark phasers on the Enterprise and TARDIS display.

Speaking of which, should I have red phaser beams, or blue ones?

Hopefully (fingers crossed!) I'll get a couple of these all finished this week.

-Ricky

I'm leaning towards blue myself, but red might stand out more, depending on the effect on the TARDIS.

 

[sojourner]

(or missing parts)

How do you scan a missing part?

 

[fireproof78]

How do you scan a missing part?

By finding the model online. I should have been more clear.

 

[sojourner]

By finding the model online. I should have been more clear.

How do you scan something online?

 

[fireproof78]

How do you scan something online?

It's a secret.

 

[sojourner]

No, seriously, I get what you're saying. Like if you needed 4 copies of a part but the kit you bought was short one. You can just scan one of the ones you have and duplicate it. Or if you needed a reverse of the piece you have. Scan it, mirror the digital copy, then print it.

 

[MadMan1701A]

WIth the Makerbot scanner I have, I can do about a 5 inch tall object. To get any kind of good, usuable detail though, you'd have to have a lot higher end scanner. Here's an example of a ceramic book-end that I scanned... this is probably the best one that came out.

It's best if the original object is a light, matte, uniform color to start with!

It did correctly scan the broken corner even!

Got some stuff finished tonight, too! The Indiana Jones Webley revolver, and the Custom YT-1400 are ready to get out of here. Only 5 more models with paint in progress to get done in this batch now.

More soon. Have fun guys!

-Ricky

 

[fireproof78]

No, seriously, I get what you're saying. Like if you needed 4 copies of a part but the kit you bought was short one. You can just scan one of the ones you have and duplicate it. Or if you needed a reverse of the piece you have. Scan it, mirror the digital copy, then print it.

I'm glad you got it because I clearly wasn't explaining it very well.

WIth the Makerbot scanner I have, I can do about a 5 inch tall object. To get any kind of good, usuable detail though, you'd have to have a lot higher end scanner. Here's an example of a ceramic book-end that I scanned... this is probably the best one that came out.

It's best if the original object is a light, matte, uniform color to start with!

It did correctly scan the broken corner even!

Got some stuff finished tonight, too! The Indiana Jones Webley revolver, and the Custom YT-1400 are ready to get out of here. Only 5 more models with paint in progress to get done in this batch now.

More soon. Have fun guys!

-Ricky

Everything is looking fantastic. I love the custom coloring on the YT-2400. Have you done a YT-2000 at all or thought about it?

 

[sojourner]

You should do the bladerunner gun. It would best be printed in parts using some translucent plastics in the right places.

 

[Tribble puncher]

It would be neat to see a "SeaQuest DSV" model, the actual kit is hard to find and quite pricey now.

 

[MadMan1701A]

I'm glad you got it because I clearly wasn't explaining it very well.

Everything is looking fantastic. I love the custom coloring on the YT-2400. Have you done a YT-2000 at all or thought about it?

Thanks. After I painted it, I used sandpaper all over it to wear the color off for that used look. Turned out OK. I haven't done the YT2000, but I did make an Oota Goota! which looks similar.

You should do the bladerunner gun. It would best be printed in parts using some translucent plastics in the right places.

Cool, I'll read up on that one, I can't remember exactly what it looks like!

It would be neat to see a "SeaQuest DSV" model, the actual kit is hard to find and quite pricey now.

That would also be a good one! I don't think I even realized they made a kit of it. This is going on my build for conventions list!

Thanks guys.

-Ricky

 

[Tribble puncher]

Thanks. After I painted it, I used sandpaper all over it to wear the color off for that used look. Turned out OK. I haven't done the YT2000, but I did make an Oota Goota! which looks similar.



Cool, I'll read up on that one, I can't remember exactly what it looks like!



That would also be a good one! I don't think I even realized they made a kit of it. This is going on my build for conventions list!

Thanks guys.

-Ricky

Actually a quick ebay search, the kit can be had for about 50. I'm not sure how accurate it is to the show though, you remember 90's scifi kits...amirite? eh? eh?

 

[MadMan1701A]

Cool, 50 isn't that bad.

Oh yeah, I remember the AMT Trek Kits and the Star wars ones... the obscure ones didn't really make it down my way.

I didn't get to the hobby store that was 20 miles away very often as a kid!.

-Ricky

 

[Atolm]

Damn sweet work bro!