I always thought Kirk felt like Kirk throughout the movie, only this Kirk is going through a life change.
As soon as Shatner utters his dialogue, "Commander Sonak..." it feels like Kirk.
Same thing with Bones. His introduction in the transporter is one of my favorite moments of the film.
As a matter of fact, everyone seems like themselves but a little more experienced. Only Spock seems different, but it's obvious he's going through something major.
One thing I do think ALL fans should love (aside from the score) is the epic feel of the Enterprise. I don't think we've ever seen the Enterprise look so awesome, and full of people. The Enterprise looks like Grand Central Station. People walking briskly through corridors like they're on a serious, time sensitive task. I love that!
Though I recognize its flaws, I love TMP but it's not for everybody.
The one time he really seemed like Kirk to me was when he and Chekov shared a smile when the Enterprise went to warp. One of my favorite moments. McCoy was certainly himself. As for the others, frankly, they didn't have enough to do for me to get a feel for them.
Other than in TWOK, I'm not completely sure when Spock was ever really "Spock" in a Trek movie. Seems there was always something up with him, not just in TMP.
And yes, the Enterprise was beautiful, inside and out.
Man, I always thought he felt like Kirk to me, albeit a Kirk who's going through some growing pains.
I agree with you on Spock.
I remember feeling a real sense of loss after TWOK, not because he died, but because when he came back, Spock was never quite like that TWOK Spock ever again.
It sucks because I felt like in TWOK, Spock was finally truly himself. It's as if he finally achieved peace and balance between his Vulcan and human side.