the curvature never changed.....it just looks different when the different levels of backbone are stacked on top. I'm debating with myself on how deep to inset all of the windows or offset the escape pod hatches. I'll have to experiment with some trial pieces with primer and then sanding them to see how everything is going to lay out. Primer is going to take away from the insets and barley add anything to the exterior surface once finish sanding is done. I've been carving out trial sections of the model as i finish them off and they are looking so smooth that no filler work or anything will be needed, so I'm real happy about that.
tng blueprinting WIP
- Thread starter AnyStar
- Start date
Saquist
Commodore
It's like the back of the neck was slightly wrinkled but that may have just been an illusion. What about rear edge of the Pylons at the very back of the stardrive. I thought there was supposed to be a small radius just behind the torpedo launcher.
don't worry, there will be.....i'm waiting till i finish all the shapes before I fillet the hard edges...everything will be visually perfect to the 6ft model once its finished...here is the filled in engine area.....i've made it transparent blue, but its hard to make out the shapes with it colored.....
Last edited:
Cherry red warp caps(reminds me of christmas bulbs)
There are little piping lines(on the 6ft model) engraved on the slanted transition(chrome) between the warp cap(red) and the engine casing. You can tell they are hand made on the real model and wasn't sure if I should make them perfect on my software, or do them by hand on the real piece.....any suggestions? I'm not sure if everything should look perfect or there should be some hand made look to it like the real model.
There are little piping lines(on the 6ft model) engraved on the slanted transition(chrome) between the warp cap(red) and the engine casing. You can tell they are hand made on the real model and wasn't sure if I should make them perfect on my software, or do them by hand on the real piece.....any suggestions? I'm not sure if everything should look perfect or there should be some hand made look to it like the real model.
Last edited:
here is a fun doo-dad on the back of the top engine casing.....not sure what it is (if someone does please let me know), but I think a strobe light goes inside the hollow part(on the real model)........haven't quite finished it, but thought it looked pretty cool and was fun to make. I'm going to have to redo the warp coils, at closer inspection, the pattern is a little different than blueprinted. I'm trying to finish up the entire warp engine assembly before the weekend(a couple hours of work) so I can CNC it out and start working with my hands(i'm also excited about getting molds made so I can make the real parts and then I can start working on lighting). Each warp engine assembly will be around 30'' long.
Last edited:
These pics are simply beautiful, man... for some reason, this thread keeps taking me back to the excitement I had as a kid, playing with my AMT/ERTL 1701-D model, and just all-around reminding me how much I love TNG. Thanks! 
Saquist
Commodore
Cherry red warp caps(reminds me of christmas bulbs)
My favorite fruit is
Chocolate Covered Cherries,
Seedless Water Mellons
OH
Nothing from the Ground is good enough!!
I got finished with my model and compared it to "ortho"(perspective distortion makes them not really ortho) photos of the studio model....didn't match up.....so I then tried scaling and stretching my model to fit match the studio model....it isn't within acceptable tolerances for me. I can't in good conscience make a physical model if it isn't 99.99 percent accurate to the real deal.
So I made the decision to start from square one. I realized early on that because of the perspective distortion, I can't use the ortho photos as a set of blueprints to start my model from, otherwise, I'll have a distorted end product.....I need a perfect set of ortho blueprints.
I'm currently working on photometrically reconstructing a 3d point cloud from the available 2d photos(3d scan) in order to create a perfect set of orthos. I wrote a macro that uses advanced algorithms to derive the surface data from photos that are available. This took many hours of work not including the pre-processing of the images. I've already got a rough mesh of the hull that I'll post later today. Keep in mind this is the only way I can get a 3d scan of the original model unless someone has one that I don't know about. Soon I can start over and make a visually perfect replica of the studio model.
I'm enjoying all of the challenges of this, but I'm learning quite a bit in reverse engineering an object just from photographs.
I'll post a pic of the 3d mesh I have so far from the reconstruction, it may look like a step backwards, but it really isn't. Once I write a filter to take the noise out and increase accuracy of pattern recognition, it should look pretty good.
So I made the decision to start from square one. I realized early on that because of the perspective distortion, I can't use the ortho photos as a set of blueprints to start my model from, otherwise, I'll have a distorted end product.....I need a perfect set of ortho blueprints.
I'm currently working on photometrically reconstructing a 3d point cloud from the available 2d photos(3d scan) in order to create a perfect set of orthos. I wrote a macro that uses advanced algorithms to derive the surface data from photos that are available. This took many hours of work not including the pre-processing of the images. I've already got a rough mesh of the hull that I'll post later today. Keep in mind this is the only way I can get a 3d scan of the original model unless someone has one that I don't know about. Soon I can start over and make a visually perfect replica of the studio model.
I'm enjoying all of the challenges of this, but I'm learning quite a bit in reverse engineering an object just from photographs.
I'll post a pic of the 3d mesh I have so far from the reconstruction, it may look like a step backwards, but it really isn't. Once I write a filter to take the noise out and increase accuracy of pattern recognition, it should look pretty good.
Last edited:
I got finished with my model and compared it to "ortho"(perspective distortion makes them not really ortho) photos of the studio model....didn't match up.....so I then tried scaling and stretching my model to fit match the studio model....it isn't within acceptable tolerances for me. I can't in good conscience make a physical model if it isn't 99.99 percent accurate to the real deal.
So I made the decision to start from square one. I realized early on that because of the perspective distortion, I can't use the ortho photos as a set of blueprints to start my model from, otherwise, I'll have a distorted end product.....I need a perfect set of ortho blueprints.
I'm currently working on photometrically reconstructing a 3d point cloud from the available 2d photos(3d scan) in order to create a perfect set of orthos. I wrote a macro that uses advanced algorithms to derive the surface data from photos that are available. This took many hours of work not including the pre-processing of the images. I've already got a rough mesh of the hull that I'll post later today. Keep in mind this is the only way I can get a 3d scan of the original model unless someone has one that I don't know about. Soon I can start over and make a visually perfect replica of the studio model.
I'm enjoying all of the challenges of this, but I'm learning quite a bit in reverse engineering an object just from photographs.
I'll post a pic of the 3d mesh I have so far from the reconstruction, it may look like a step backwards, but it really isn't. Once I write a filter to take the noise out and increase accuracy of pattern recognition, it should look pretty good.
Holy. Fucking. Shit.
I know you can do things like this with Rhino (in fact, this is one of the reasons it's so awesome), but this is amazing to see.
Still, even that should be enough to work with to rough out the proper contours
WTFBBQAWESOME.
Similar threads
