Model Newbie - help!
- Thread starter Turbo
- Start date
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
Each of those questions is up to discussion, but if you want a good basic starter kit, I'd say start with and old school Galileo, AMT Enterprise, or AMT Refit. These are not the ultimate in accuracy, far from it, but they give you a chance to get your legs under you, to get started.
Paint; No, you do not have to have an airbrush, especially to start. You can start out with acryilc paints, enamels... whatever. The best, cheap way and easiest way is to start with spray cans, paint you buy at WalMart, or somewhere similar.
Since you're just begining, start out easy and take some time to develope your skills. Don't expect to create a *Prop Replica* your first model. It's a skill that is developed like anything else.
Paint; No, you do not have to have an airbrush, especially to start. You can start out with acryilc paints, enamels... whatever. The best, cheap way and easiest way is to start with spray cans, paint you buy at WalMart, or somewhere similar.
Since you're just begining, start out easy and take some time to develope your skills. Don't expect to create a *Prop Replica* your first model. It's a skill that is developed like anything else.
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
It really depends on what you want. It's a small ship, about 11" and it's a snap together kit. It's really easy to assemble and the decals are pretty good, out of the box. It's up to you. I suggest you sand the copyright info off of the underside of the saucer and use the decals instead of the stickers. The saucer can be a little difficult to actually get into place on the neck and there are a couple of other small issues, but no kit's perfect.
What ever works for you. I was thinking of a glue kit though.
What ever works for you. I was thinking of a glue kit though.
You should also go to Starship Modeler: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/index.htm
SSM also has forums: http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/
SSM also has forums: http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
Yes, unfortunately you don't enjoy the same freedom of expression that you do here. I was banned for confronting the owner with the truth about giving away my intellectual property there, so I would suggest that you stay in a place where you will be treated like an adult. But, that's just my oppinion.
If I used the PL kit, I'd definitely be using glue instead of snapping it together. I don't trust the snap-kits. I did one of a shuttle orbiter when I was a kid, but I can't imagine that a snap-Enterprise would hold up all that well.
SSM looks like a great site for info, thanks.
SSM looks like a great site for info, thanks.
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
Yes, definately use glue. I used fingernail clippers to clip off all of the lil tabs and glued most of mine.
Have you ever used putty to fill the seems on a model?
Have you ever used putty to fill the seems on a model?
Nah, but from what I can tell (from SSM and elsewhere), there's only the expected gaps at the saucer/neck connection and the pylons/secondary hull connection. I figure I can always either go back and fix them later or build a new model.
Should I paint the pieces before putting it together, or should I leave it until the end? I know that I'll have to paint the bussard collectors before putting them on, as they're clear, but what about the rest?
Should I paint the pieces before putting it together, or should I leave it until the end? I know that I'll have to paint the bussard collectors before putting them on, as they're clear, but what about the rest?
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
That's up to you, but I'd assemble the sub-assemblys first, like the nacelles, the engineering section and pylons, the saucer, and then do the final assembly last, but everyone has thier own way, whatever works best for you. I really would putty the connection of the pylons to the eng section and the nacelles and saucer halves. All you need is some 3M spot putty, from virtually any WalMart. It's about three dollars and a little putty and sanding makes all the difference.
Having built up a couple of the PL 1701's I can tell you that it's not the hard a kit to get good results from. a few tips:
The seam on the saucer can be readily addressed by useing a little too much glue around the seam and sanding it flat after it dries. This will make a seamless blend after it's painted.
The Engines present the most problem in my experiance. The aft ends are slightly too narrow so when the aft shrounds are attached, they overhang the width of the engines and look a little funny to my eye. This can be corrected but if this is your first go it probbaly isn't worth it. Also the three little box thingies under the Bussard Collectors not not fit against the wall of the nacelles for love or money. You ought to putty around these in order to make them seem more integral the overall structure.
Otherwise, I think that's a great choice. Certianly better than the AMT one, which, though bigger, is grossly inaccurate. (Unless you are going to build it as the Constellation NCC-1017 - in which case it's exactly correct as it was the model used on the show!)
The seam on the saucer can be readily addressed by useing a little too much glue around the seam and sanding it flat after it dries. This will make a seamless blend after it's painted.
The Engines present the most problem in my experiance. The aft ends are slightly too narrow so when the aft shrounds are attached, they overhang the width of the engines and look a little funny to my eye. This can be corrected but if this is your first go it probbaly isn't worth it. Also the three little box thingies under the Bussard Collectors not not fit against the wall of the nacelles for love or money. You ought to putty around these in order to make them seem more integral the overall structure.
Otherwise, I think that's a great choice. Certianly better than the AMT one, which, though bigger, is grossly inaccurate. (Unless you are going to build it as the Constellation NCC-1017 - in which case it's exactly correct as it was the model used on the show!)
Only if you have an old long box version, pre-1976 or so.
I've gotta get my digital camera working...
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
The AMT Refit is not that bad of a kit, but what you really need is a smoothie, an original 79 kit, where they hadn't started the raised hull plating crap. I've got about four, or five, drop me a line if you're interested...
As for the *bussard collectors* that's easy. Spray some gold spray paint over it/them, let them dry them spray some "Testors, clear, candy apple red" over them, let dry, mask off and spray your choice of grey. You can get this effect from this process.
Doh! Sorry about that last one, it kinda snuck in there.
As for the *bussard collectors* that's easy. Spray some gold spray paint over it/them, let them dry them spray some "Testors, clear, candy apple red" over them, let dry, mask off and spray your choice of grey. You can get this effect from this process.
Doh! Sorry about that last one, it kinda snuck in there.
No, they did not. What they did do, tho, is make the deflector grid line as a raised detail. We'd have been better off if they'd just left it off, tho I understand their thinking.
Thankfully, tho, there are aftermarket decals out there for the TOS 1701, Refit and E-B kits that allow for better details on the models. All you do is to sand off the deflector grid lines, paint as desired and add these decals.
Another route to go for the 1/1000 clear domes is to paint the interior "fan blades" pieces a base of silver, then cover w/clear orange. Then paint interior of the dome a clear red. Tamiya makes a great clear colors that airbrush on quite smoothly. Check out the Starship Modeler Gallery for some excellent buildup work. Scroll down and select the "Star Trek: Enterprises" option to see what other folks have done and get an idea of different techniques.
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
You've got my answer and the answer of others, you can look at each persons work and decide whom you want to follow, I would suggest though that you can also take a pencil and rub it across the fins, or blades of the part inside the bussard collector and you can add a mild frost to the outside part. It all depends upon how detailed you want to get and how you want it to look. You can make three different versions of the ship and as many variations as is possible. It all depends on the modeler, the skill level and the desire within. I've made several of these, to say the least, and there are as many ways of doing things as there are people and ideas.
If you get started on this, please post some pictures. :thumbsup:
CaptainHawk1
Commodore
One of the things I would suggest is separating your parts to make sure that you don't confuse them as I did when I built my PL 1/1000. IIRC there are 2 different warp nacelle designs (4 pieces) and I totally got confused because I didn't separate them.
-Shawn
-Shawn
KirkTrekModeler
Commander
I think I've got enough to make an entire kit. Let me check. :thumbsup:
Patience, when dealing with eBay. I've gotten LOTs of great deals on models just chillin' and waitin' to see what came up. That or put in a request in at Starship Modeler's forum called The Marketplace. I've gotten a few even better deals there, as well as a few other forums online.
That being said, having someone snipe an item you were wanting sux. Sorry to hear about that.
That being said, having someone snipe an item you were wanting sux. Sorry to hear about that.
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