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285 nm UV-C Homemade Covid-19 Sanitizer

Dryson

Dryson

Commodore
Commodore
LED Wavelength in the article title is 280nm and not 285nm.

After doing extensive reading, I have found that 280 nm UV-C light is the best light to inactivate the Covid-19 on surfaces. I have already purchased most of the items below and when they arrive and I have built the mask version of the sanitizer, I will post the images here.

Not only will the 280nm UV-C light inactivate Covid-19 inside of a mask, the sanitizer will inactivate Covid-19 and pretty much any other viruses that might be lingering around in the home when used properly.

For the homemade version, I envision the light strips, Buck Puck and heat sink mounted inside of a five sided wood box. For those with 3D printing capabilities you could create a composite material version.

Here are the components you will need to create your own 280 nm UV-C sanitizing light.
280nm UV light will inactivate the Covid-19 virus permanently.

The good thing about your own sanitizing light is that it can be used for many years and only needs the Buck Puck replaced.

1. 1-XBT-1313-UV-A130-AB280-00 / 3 strip LED (get the solderless connectors)
2. 1-10 mm x 10 mm Bond-Ply® 100 strips
3. 1-11mm x 31 mm heat sink
4. 1- 3021-D-E-1000 Externally Dimmable BuckPuck
5. 1- Connecting Wire with Adjust Pot, (switch)
6. 1- Shroud, five sides wood box to mount the LED's too that will protect your hands and eyes while sanitizing your home or auto.

https://www.luxeonstar.com/

Does adding reflective material to the inside walls of the wooden box increase the intensity of the UV-C output coming out of the box opening?
 
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Dryson said:
Does adding reflective material to the inside walls of the wooden box increase the intensity of the UV-C output coming out of the box opening?
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Yes, if you were to use aluminised Mylar, aluminium foil, chrome-plated tin or similar. I've bought rolls of adhesive Mylar tape from Amazon in the past. Any mirroring surface needs to be of the first-surface type as glass and plastic will tend to absorb UV. UV will eventually degrade Mylar as some UV will penetrate through to the plastic layer.

I wouldn't use white paint containing titanium dioxide (TiO2) to reflect the light as TiO2 is effective at absorbing UV.
 
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Asbo Zaprudder said:
Yes, if you were to use aluminised Mylar, aluminium foil, chrome-plated tin or similar. I've bought rolls of adhesive Mylar tape from Amazon in the past. Any mirroring surface needs to be of the first-surface type as glass and plastic will tend to absorb UV. UV will eventually degrade Mylar as some UV will penetrate through to the plastic layer.

I wouldn't use white paint containing titanium dioxide (TiO2) to reflect the light as TiO2 is effective at absorbing UV.
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Which one is the best though for reflecting the UV light, dare I say photons, without causing the UV light to absorbed at all?

I do have some Mylar, but it is in the form of an Emergency Roadside blanket, which I doubt would be very effective as you can see through the Mylar, slightly

The reflective surface will also be used for the mask, inside of the filter so that any 280 UV that might radiate backwards, towards the mouth and nose area, would be reflected forward.

The mask itself is two pieces, the filter which is a detachable unit and the face piece that the filter fits onto. The UV in the filter area would never reach the the mouth or nose because the rear of the filter housing and the front of the face piece would block the UV light.

I just want to make certain as much UV is sent forward, into the filter and the front piece of the filter housing as possible without a .001% chance of the UV leaking into the face piece.

I really don't need my lips falling off while eating or talking, tbh.
 
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Probably aluminium foil would be best but this mask you describe sounds awfully uncomfortable and unwieldy to wear. It would become hot and there is the danger of exposing the wearer or other people to UV, which can cause burns, eye damage, skin cancer etc. How will you test its efficacy, how will you manufacture it in millions, and how will you gain approval for its deployment? What are the effects of wearing it for prolonged periods? Where is the battery pack, how heavy is it, and how often does it need to be recharged or replaced? Have you checked for potential patent infringement? Should you also patent this device in the US and other counties? What are the costs of manufacture, assembly and distribution? Where would you manufacture and what are the logistical problems that would need to be addressed? What is the likely retail cost? How would you market it? How would you distribute it? What environmental costs are associated with the mask's disposal at its end of life? Is it recyclable? Do you need to insure against litigation should there be unforeseen side effects from wearing the mask? There are many things to take into consideration.

Dryson said:
Which one is the best though for reflecting the UV light, dare I say photons, without causing the UV light to absorbed at all?
...
I really don't need my lips falling off while eating or talking, tbh.
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UV light photons are indeed quanta of energy as the photoelectric effect demonstrated and Albert Einstein explained. You're the person building this contraption so you need to take responsibility for its safety. I'm having nothing to do with it.
 
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Dryson said:
Which one is the best though for reflecting the UV light, dare I say photons, without causing the UV light to absorbed at all?

I do have some Mylar, but it is in the form of an Emergency Roadside blanket, which I doubt would be very effective as you can see through the Mylar, slightly

The reflective surface will also be used for the mask, inside of the filter so that any 285 UV that might radiate backwards, towards the mouth and nose area, would be reflected forward.

The mask itself is two pieces, the filter which is a detachable unit and the face piece that the filter fits onto. The UV in the filter area would never reach the the mouth or nose because the rear of the filter housing and the front of the face piece would block the UV light.

I just want to make certain as much UV is sent forward, into the filter and the front piece of the filter housing as possible without a .001% chance of the UV leaking into the face piece.

I really don't need my lips falling off while eating or talking, tbh.
Click to expand...

Donald Trump bumbling about UV light was not meant to be taken seriously.....

Please dont try ingesting disinfectant........
 
Even if UV were proven 100% effective at killing the SARS-Cov-2 virus and its variants, I suspect this mask is going to be quite heavy and unwieldy although I suppose the battery pack could be located on a belt or holster. It would also need circuitry to monitor the power level of the battery and the status of the UV light source, the time of continuous operation, and time remaining until next inspection, maintenance and replacement.
 
A flaw with your concept is that it takes about 15 minutes exposure of UV light to deactivate the virus. Airborne particles would probably get an exposure of a fraction of a second. While it would kill the virus that lands on the mask, it would be ineffective for what's going into your body.
 
Non Sync said:
A flaw with your concept is that it takes about 15 minutes exposure of UV light to deactivate the virus. Airborne particles would probably get an exposure of a fraction of a second. While it would kill the virus that lands on the mask, it would be ineffective for what's going into your body.
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Where is your data?

The average bacterium will be killed in ten seconds at a distance of six inches from the lamp in an American Ultraviolet Germicidal Fixture.

You go back and forth between the virus being alive, "kill the virus" and the virus not being alive "inactivate the virus."

Germ: a catch-all term that describes very small microorganisms, like a virus or bacteria, that can cause illness in humans.

Bacteria: Single-celled organisms that lack a distinct nucleus. Can either be beneficial or harmful to health, depending on type. Bacteria feed on living and dead matter. Bacteria need to feed to produce energy. Bacteria are larger than viruses.

Bacteria need to consume matter in order to replicate.

Virus: Tiny organisms that require a living host to multiply. Viruses are parasites. Viruses replicate by infecting other cells. Outside of a host cell, viruses do not use any energy. They only become active when they come into contact with a host cell. Once activated, they use the host cell's energy and tools to make more viruses. Because they do not use their own energy, some scientists do not consider them alive.

Viruses infect a hosts cell in order to replicate. Viruses invade a cell and cause it to rupture causing the inactive replicated to spread.

http://microbemagic.ucc.ie/inside_g...a eat or dead,or dangerous materials like oil.

The mask that I have is a two layer mask system. The virus itself would never reach my mouth or nose due to the flow of the air.

The UV-C LEDs are an extra measure to basically cause the RNA of the virus to break apart when the virus when it becomes stuck in the filter or on the inside of the filter housing or comes in direct contact with the UV-C light.

So it might sound like hitting a virus with this light isn’t a good idea – we want to STOP them from growing right? Key thing is, when it comes to viruses, they have much smaller genomes with much less room for error and much less proofreading & fixing power, so their RNA gets *fatally* flawed. In addition to causing dimers, UV light can make viral RNA strands actually break, and therefore it can kill viruses instead of giving them superpowers.

https://thebumblingbiochemist.com/3...pens-when-it-and-dna-or-rna-get-into-a-fight/


I received my first components today. 4, 10mm x 10mm ceramic heat sinks for the LED's.
 
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