Building the USS Enterprise in Blender 3D

[Sibyl]

Yup, I understand that they're talking about lenses and not film.

In correlation with what we consider "normal" vision to be, a 50mm lens is the most accepted standard for 35mm film, which is why I thought that an 18mm lens would be a little wider than I thought they'd used.

I haven't really analyzed the shots, though. I've generally watched TOS for enjoyment rather than analyzation (which is odd for me).

 

[scifieric]

In my efforts to track back where I read that, I've found a second article that might add to our awareness of what they did during the production of the series. This American Cinematographer article from October 20, 2016, says that an 18mm lens was sometimes used to create depth on the live action sets. https://ascmag.com/articles/star-trek-50-part-iv-tos-meets-the-next-generation .

Success! Here is the October 13, 2016, article from the same publication: https://ascmag.com/articles/star-trek-50-part-i-original-series-effects, where they mention that "Film Effects was given the assignment to carry on with the fine work started by The Anderson Company, in the photography of the space ship U.S.S. Enterprise. Two-foot and twelve-foot models were used, the latter fully equipped with interior and exterior lights, and twin motors emitting flashing multi-colored light effects, spinning on the noses of the engine nacelles. Most of the apparent motion of the ship was produced by the camera’s travel forward and back. All motions were motorized – the dolly travel, the camera boom raising or lowering, the tripod head panning or tilting, and the lens zooming forward or back. In addition, the Enterprise, mounted on a shaft attached to a tilting and panning tripod head could execute certain remotely controlled motions which, when combined with the camera’s actions, could carry out practically any type of maneuver. The use of an 18mm lens made it possible to accentuate the speed of travel as well as retain an adequate depth of field."

Food for thought...

OUTSTANDING! Thank you!

18mm. I wouldn't've suspected that. Seems wide, but it's great information to have! Thanks!

Yep. It doesn't say anything about the type of film, but I'll make my choices based on what renders the image best, I guess. This is great.

18mm lens, not film. I'll also guess that it was used on the 3 footer, not the 11. Specifically the whoosh shots. Which I believe is something that Remastered and several can reproductions of those shots got wrong. It's what gives you that last "snap" as the ship leaves the frame.

I agree with you. I've been trying to decide if I duplicate the three foot model when I remake that bit, or if I continue with the 11 foot duplicate and give it lights. Hmm.

 

[Tallguy]

Well, you'd be looking at this:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvU2xvd1dob29zaDUucG5n/?ref=

vs. this:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvV2hvb3NoTFJjLnBuZw==/?ref=

 

[scifieric]

Well, you'd be looking at this:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvU2xvd1dob29zaDUucG5n/?ref=

vs. this:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvV2hvb3NoTFJjLnBuZw==/?ref=

Correct. And I'm having a hard time choosing. My avowed goal has been to try to look as much like the original as possible, but then I make decisions every now and again for what I consider to be pragmatic reasons. Like the extra detailing on the Constellation. The increased resolution and clarity of Blu-Ray means that the original details of putty with a few wires sticking out won't do for detailing. At least, in my opinion. So, it's a choice similar to that for me.

 

[Irishman]

I don't know if this is helpful, guys, but I just did a couple of quick renders, only changing the lens from 35mm to 18mm.

https://www.deviantart.com/irishman20/art/18mmtest-766585136

https://www.deviantart.com/irishman20/art/35mmtest2-766587601

And, this time I made a second render with the 18mm lens, with the change of zooming in one mousewheel click, hopefully to see if there are any differences revealed by doing so.

https://www.deviantart.com/irishman20/art/18mmzoomed-766596620?ga_submit_new=10:1538529148

 

[scifieric]

Thank you, Irishman! I appreciate the help. Very nice work.

 

[Tallguy]

Yeah, to compare like to like you need to zoom in (or out) so the ship fills the same amount of space. Which you did with that last shot.

Nice.

 

[scifieric]

I've applied my new warp dome textures and the new textures for the deflector dish, rings, and deflector spike to my old USS Enterprise model and gave it a test render. I figure it turned out okay. Looking for criticism.
https://www.deviantart.com/scifieric/art/ElaanShipAndStars01-766618424

 

[Tallguy]

Looks great as always, but it looks a little dark.

 

[scifieric]

Looks great as always, but it looks a little dark.

Thank you! Done dark on purpose to try to match the source material. I'll post a video fairly soon. I may go back and readjust.

Thank you, Bill!

 

[Atolm]

I've applied my new warp dome textures and the new textures for the deflector dish, rings, and deflector spike to my old USS Enterprise model and gave it a test render. I figure it turned out okay. Looking for criticism.
https://www.deviantart.com/scifieric/art/ElaanShipAndStars01-766618424

Love it! She came out amazing. As for dark, you could go a tad darker on the overall liting as space is very dark. But I love what you've done here

 

[Tallguy]

Thank you! Done dark on purpose to try to match the source material. I'll post a video fairly soon. I may go back and readjust.

Thank you, Bill!

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvU2F1Y2VyVG9wMS5wbmc=/?ref=

Ok, fine. Yours might be a little light!

That shot wasn't used all that much, was it?

 

[scifieric]

Love it! She came out amazing. As for dark, you could go a tad darker on the overall liting as space is very dark. But I love what you've done here

Thanks! I think I know what Bill was talking about. Let's ask him!

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvU2F1Y2VyVG9wMS5wbmc=/?ref=

Ok, fine. Yours might be a little light!

That shot wasn't used all that much, was it?

You are correct! I recall the shot was used in Elaan of Troyius and at the beginning of The Tholian Web. I can't recall other episodes, but it may have been used in more. You're the expert! You created the document!

If you meant that the warp domes were too dark, I've made a couple of changes. They look similar, but the lights shine through a little more now. Rerunning the sequence. I'll never be unhappy making multiple versions of the same shot! It's fun to see how close I can get to the original. I should have something in a day or so.

 

[Irishman]

Eric,

I have a quick question for you about your video #12 - "Neck With Audio". In it, you have an edge split modifier the you leave pretty much unapplied through the process of cutting windows, and after you mirror your other half of the neck.

Is there a practical reason for not applying the modifier, or were you just super-focused on creating an awesome tutorial that you just forgot to apply it earlier?

Thanks again!

 

[scifieric]

Eric,

I have a quick question for you about your video #12 - "Neck With Audio". In it, you have an edge split modifier the you leave pretty much unapplied through the process of cutting windows, and after you mirror your other half of the neck.

Is there a practical reason for not applying the modifier, or were you just super-focused on creating an awesome tutorial that you just forgot to apply it earlier?

Thanks again!

Hello Irishman!
Good question. I leave edge split modifiers unapplied until I absolutely have to apply them. These later versions of Blender do something a little odd with the Edge Split modifier. It creates doubles.

So, you'll find that I add the edge split modifier ... and then often just leave it. When the model is ready to be textured, if I need to join pieces together, then I'll apply everything and call it done. Since the end result is a render, I often do not HAVE to apply the final modifier. KInd of the best of both worlds, I get the benefit of the edge split modifier, without applying it and getting a lot of doubles.

But these are just my crazy ways of thinking. If you want to apply your modifier, go right ahead!

I hope that answers your question.

 

[scifieric]

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wpthomas007/media/cGF0aDpUT1MgRlgvU2F1Y2VyVG9wMS5wbmc=/?ref=

Ok, fine. Yours might be a little light!

That shot wasn't used all that much, was it?

Is this one any better?

 

[psCargile]

I was watching the B and C deck build thinking, "Use the mirror modifier." Half as much work, twice as fast.

I think my approach would be adding a 16 vert circle with no ngon, delete half and mirror, and move those verts into position around the base outline. Copy that and move the copy up and scale it. Then do a cubic bridge or loft with three or four divisions, and adjusting the settings to approximate the curvature. Add the subsurface modifier and let it do all the work. The less verts you have to move around the better the subsurface looks. Push verts into place. Apply the mirror, and grid fill the top hole. Grid fill makes nice quads automatically and looks better with subsurface than the ngon or triangles meeting in the center. Wouldn't hurt to Fill, Inset a control loop, delete the center face, and then Grid Fill to better control the subsurface modifier at the edge.

(Instead of bridging, extending the base edge loop, adding loops, and proportional scaling would work too.)

I haven't tried that approach yet, but I'm thinking about. It might not be a better alternative—the back slope may be tricky.

Also, I noted you had trouble with the front area where you used the Spin, you deleted some edges, and used subdivide to create verts. A faster way would have been to select every other edge like you did, hit X and only delete them, which should leave you with quads, then use the Knife with snap set to center to bring that loop around.

 

[scifieric]

I was watching the B and C deck build thinking, "Use the mirror modifier." Half as much work, twice as fast.

I think my approach would be adding a 16 vert circle with no ngon, delete half and mirror, and move those verts into position around the base outline. Copy that and move the copy up and scale it. Then do a cubic bridge or loft with three or four divisions, and adjusting the settings to approximate the curvature. Add the subsurface modifier and let it do all the work. The less verts you have to move around the better the subsurface looks. Push verts into place. Apply the mirror, and grid fill the top hole. Grid fill makes nice quads automatically and looks better with subsurface than the ngon or triangles meeting in the center. Wouldn't hurt to Fill, Inset a control loop, delete the center face, and then Grid Fill to better control the subsurface modifier at the edge.

(Instead of bridging, extending the base edge loop, adding loops, and proportional scaling would work too.)

I haven't tried that approach yet, but I'm thinking about. It might not be a better alternative—the back slope may be tricky.

Also, I noted you had trouble with the front area where you used the Spin, you deleted some edges, and used subdivide to create verts. A faster way would have been to select every other edge like you did, hit X and only delete them, which should leave you with quads, then use the Knife with snap set to center to bring that loop around.

I did use the mirror modifier!

I am also making another Enterprise with different sets of plans. There are fewer of them, so I went with the Sinclair plans for the tutorials because it covers the ship from EVERY angle. Makes it easier to show people how to use plans.

With my other Enterprise build (going on when I get time) I did something a little different. I made a REALLY low poly curve of three (if I remember correctly) edges and used it to create the BC deck with a low poly spin, then copied those three edges and placed them down the rest of the length of the BC deck. I manually adjusted them, and made a box of sorts at the back end. Then I "skinned" them and attached everything to the front. In the end, I let Subdivision Surface do most of the work. I think it is better than anything I've built before. So, not exactly what you were talking about, but close!

Thanks psCargile! Great suggestions!

 

[psCargile]

Yeah, there many ways to get the same results. I usually free form without prints as I don't do existing models, so I can't say with method best produces the target outline.

 

[Tallguy]

@scifieric that sounds about how I build the BC. Anything that has to be smooth, I use as low poly as I can and let the machine do all the work.