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WIP - USS Enterprise: the R-Protocol

I don't know why you're insisting that the extensions are "aerodynamic" or "tailfins" - they're just that, extensions, no different from the end-pieces of the original refit nacelles, just a bit thinner. My take is that while the hull and nacelles are larger and thus should be 'heavier', it can be taken into account that, in the years following the original refitting, technology and newer materials have winnowed the mass/weight of similarly-sized ship-components quite a bit.

But, as above: ".....eye of the beholder....."
 
It looks great. Something you might do if you have the time or inclination might be to do different iterations of the refit as seen on novel covers. The image of the Enterprise in the nove cover for ST:TMP looks a bit different. fewer brush strokes--and seems a bit sleeker.

Over the years there have been many drawings of the TOS Enterprise--and each has its own charm. Kimble's drawings have been used dé rigeur --and that is fine--but it would be nice to see the original model perhaps slit scanned along its length if possible--a mere photo will not show a true profile, perspective and all...
http://makeprojects.com/Project/Flatten-3D-objects-using-Slit-Scan-photography/761/1
http://www.3dscanningservices.net/?gclid=CIHdwrH30q0CFQmd7Qod2UNqnA
http://www.creaform3d.com/lp/handyscan-na/ask-for-demo.aspx?gclid=CLm8jYX40q0CFQmd7Qod2UNqnA

A resulting blueprint off the model directly might be nice to see...
 
^You realize slit scanning does not serve the same function as 3d scanning?

Also, wtf does this have to do with his model?
 
No, I get it (just don't have an iphone, etc., written about in those linked guides).

Have the TMP novel, and know what cover-art you're talking about; one of the runner-ups in the E-F STO ship-design contest had a similar slick-streamline appearance. Liked it a lot.
 
Saw the Defiant, nice one. Nacelles have a lot in common with the ones for my USS Charger.
 
That really makes the model pop. The dual shuttlebay's join-line adds visual complexity to the secondary hulls topside.

Something I was thinking about.

You actually have a 1/350 TOS Enterprise all your own--something that has been lost on folks who are discussing the other 1/350.

And yet people are discussing the type of paints needed to make their model into what they saw on screen, and the paints themselves will not allow for that alone.

Now I wonder if you could use vacuform/blow-molds with this substance--scotchlight
http://shop.novoworks.com/3M-Scotchlite-Reflective-Vinyl.html

Now this, perhaps mixed with paint and lit with mercury vapor lamps would yield the painfully bright blue-white look from the original series, although you would have to use zip-a-tone (screentone) for the decals to allow light to bleed through else the decals would look too dark:

Also, vacuform/blowmolds allow for better self-illumination via the raytheon effect as lit from beneath, seeing as internal support mechanisms on clear injection molds may allow for internal shadows. One day someone might find a way to vacuform LED strips or flexible screen displays. So Kerr planned based yard displys might be something to play around with, to approach the warm NBC yellow? I don't think they allow for Radium paint for that anymore:)

Very strong whites and blacks
http://phys.org/news95513144.html
http://www.sciencespacerobots.com/blog/130081
http://www.wired.com/wiredscience/2009/03/ultrablack/

Glow in the dark paint http://glonation.com/

I wonder if a multi-armed robot could remove material all in one go from a solid piece of acrylic with a rod at the base allowed for a light pipe. Paint all over and maybe you have a uniform glow from all parts.
 
Kaiser, thanx!

Publishr - I've used Scotchlite, both for the windows on my 1/350 E buildup and for the interior "lighting" on my Jupiter II. It's probably do-able to make large scale applications on something as large as an Enterprise model, but haven't tackled anything like that yet. Going by what those Scotchlite sheets on the linked website you posted, these will likely cost more than painting, but you would get some benefit making the model self-illuminating to a degree. The one obstacle is that you would have to seal the decals once applied and my experience is that acrylic enamel clearcoats dull the reflectivity. I had to mask all the windows on my Enterprise to prevent this and handpaint Future over all to seal them. Maybe airbrushed coats of Future would work.
 
No progress, other than pulling parts out of the box, wishing for a little spare time to work on it, then going back to the workbench to finish some paying projects.
 
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