Wheel quandary....
- Thread starter Warped9
- Start date
At this size and resolution it might be difficult to see what is only 1 inch difference in wheel diameter. But I assure you the difference is indeed there. The telling difference isn’t so much the size of the wheel but the thickness of the tire’s sidewall.
There is another problem though. It isn’t always easy to find the images you need for photoshoppng. An 18in. wheel would have longer spokes and thus more more open space between spokes than a 17in. wheel, but I can only use what is at hand and here I’m using the same wheel to depict two different sizes.
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So here I can see how these wheels rank by two different criteria. The first is in terms of fitment. All of these wheels will fit my CrownVic, but some will be a more optimal fit than the others. The determining factor in how well a wheel will fit is in how much further the wheel and tire will protrude outward from the existing setup I presently have. In each case I have already calculated how much further the new wheel will be from the current wheel.
These three wheels offer the best fit given they are only 1/8 in. different fron my current setup. As you can see it doesn't matter whether it is an 17 or 18 inch wheel because width and offset are the determining factors. The Mustang wheel is only a 1/16 in. difference from the others and thus qualifies as an optimal fit. Whats telling, though. is how the Enkei wheels are distinctly more expensive than the Mustang, particularly as a set of four. For 18in. wheels the extra expense is nearly half the cost of new tires to fit the larger wheels.
Enkei Tenjin 17x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined (1/8 in.) - $1308
Enkei Tenjin 18x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined (1/8 in.) - $1615
Enkei EV5 18x8 et45 Hyper Black (1/8 in.) - $1211
2010 Mustang 5-spoke 18x8 et44 Sparkle Silver (3/16 in.) - $919
Although protruding a bit more than the above wheels these are still a good fit. Interestingly the F1R is not much more expensive than the Mustang wheel, but the Klutch is as pricey as the Enkei wheels.
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black (3/8 in.) - $950
Klutch SLC1 18x8.5 et45 Silver Machined (3/8 in.) - $1372
These wheels are at the maximum viable offset in terms of fitment while avoiding any issues of bumping/rubbing against the fender. The Avid and XXR wheels are reasonably priced while the Klutch is again significantly more money.
AVID1 AV34 17x8 et35 Hyper Black (1/2 in.) - $990
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black (1/2 in.) - $1016
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined (1/2 in.) - $1372
The second criteria is cost. None of these wheels are bargain basement and all are more than suitable for daily driving. That said they are all far removed from really expensive wheels that can cost thousands of dollars. Truly expensive wheels are more suited for someone who really wants to show off or for someone who needs something specifically designed and engineered for racing purposes where a wheel is exposed to stresses far exceeding those in daily driving on public roads. The true cost of the 18in. wheels is not shown because it doesn't include about $1000 for the new tires needed for those larger rims--in that sense all the 18in. are much more expensive than the 17in.
2010 Mustang 5-spoke 18x8 et44 Sparkle Silver - $919
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black - $950
AVID1 AV34 17x8 et35 Hyper Black - $990
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black - $1016
Enkei EV5 18x8 et45 Hyper Black - $1211
Enkei Tenjin 17x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined - $1308
Klutch SLC1 18x8.5 et45 Silver Machined - $1372
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined - $1372
Enkei Tenjin 18x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined - $1615
The Enkei Tenjin 18x8 is just too much more than I am comfortable paying. The difference is even more acute considering I have to buy new tires for them. If I were buying aftermarket wheels for a brand new car I wanted to be specifically equipped to my liking that would be different. But my car is sixteen years old even if in excellent condition. I also don't like the wheel better enough than some of the others to justify the price.
If I pare down the choices focusing on the wheels I like better the list looks like this.
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black - $950 (plus $1000 for new tires)
AVID1 AV34 17x8 et35 Hyper Black - $990
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black - $1016
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined - $1372 (plus $1000 for new tires)
If I try to pare it down even more to those I like best my list looks like this.
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black - $1016
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black - $950 (plus $1000 for new tires)
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined - $1372 (plus $1000 for new tires)
Looking at the above wheels I think the F1R F21 looks really well integrated with the CrownVic particularly with my chromed honeycomb grille. I think the Klutch SL14 s very similar in that 18in. wheels immediately make the car look sportier while these also add grand touring look to the car. And both wheels look almost like factory options--if Ford had ever offered anything like these for the car. The Klutch also looks a bit oldschool with its convex design as opposed to the concave design that is prominant today.
The XXR 555 looks badass. It gives the car a different look and feel. The car looks more serious and more fun. It also suggest other modifications beyond stock (which I already have and intend more) while the F1R and Klutch are more lowkey and unobtrusive. It's also the bargain of the three because I can keep my existing tires and an 18in. wheel will not perform noticeably better in daily driving than a 17in. if the tire width is the same.
Narrowed down to three the issue is which one I like the look of best.
These three wheels offer the best fit given they are only 1/8 in. different fron my current setup. As you can see it doesn't matter whether it is an 17 or 18 inch wheel because width and offset are the determining factors. The Mustang wheel is only a 1/16 in. difference from the others and thus qualifies as an optimal fit. Whats telling, though. is how the Enkei wheels are distinctly more expensive than the Mustang, particularly as a set of four. For 18in. wheels the extra expense is nearly half the cost of new tires to fit the larger wheels.
Enkei Tenjin 17x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined (1/8 in.) - $1308
Enkei Tenjin 18x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined (1/8 in.) - $1615
Enkei EV5 18x8 et45 Hyper Black (1/8 in.) - $1211
2010 Mustang 5-spoke 18x8 et44 Sparkle Silver (3/16 in.) - $919
Although protruding a bit more than the above wheels these are still a good fit. Interestingly the F1R is not much more expensive than the Mustang wheel, but the Klutch is as pricey as the Enkei wheels.
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black (3/8 in.) - $950
Klutch SLC1 18x8.5 et45 Silver Machined (3/8 in.) - $1372
These wheels are at the maximum viable offset in terms of fitment while avoiding any issues of bumping/rubbing against the fender. The Avid and XXR wheels are reasonably priced while the Klutch is again significantly more money.
AVID1 AV34 17x8 et35 Hyper Black (1/2 in.) - $990
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black (1/2 in.) - $1016
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined (1/2 in.) - $1372
The second criteria is cost. None of these wheels are bargain basement and all are more than suitable for daily driving. That said they are all far removed from really expensive wheels that can cost thousands of dollars. Truly expensive wheels are more suited for someone who really wants to show off or for someone who needs something specifically designed and engineered for racing purposes where a wheel is exposed to stresses far exceeding those in daily driving on public roads. The true cost of the 18in. wheels is not shown because it doesn't include about $1000 for the new tires needed for those larger rims--in that sense all the 18in. are much more expensive than the 17in.
2010 Mustang 5-spoke 18x8 et44 Sparkle Silver - $919
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black - $950
AVID1 AV34 17x8 et35 Hyper Black - $990
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black - $1016
Enkei EV5 18x8 et45 Hyper Black - $1211
Enkei Tenjin 17x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined - $1308
Klutch SLC1 18x8.5 et45 Silver Machined - $1372
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined - $1372
Enkei Tenjin 18x8 et45 Gunmetal Machined - $1615
The Enkei Tenjin 18x8 is just too much more than I am comfortable paying. The difference is even more acute considering I have to buy new tires for them. If I were buying aftermarket wheels for a brand new car I wanted to be specifically equipped to my liking that would be different. But my car is sixteen years old even if in excellent condition. I also don't like the wheel better enough than some of the others to justify the price.
If I pare down the choices focusing on the wheels I like better the list looks like this.
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black - $950 (plus $1000 for new tires)
AVID1 AV34 17x8 et35 Hyper Black - $990
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black - $1016
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined - $1372 (plus $1000 for new tires)
If I try to pare it down even more to those I like best my list looks like this.
XXR 555 17x8 et35 Chromium Black - $1016
F1R F21 18x8.5 et45 Hyper Black - $950 (plus $1000 for new tires)
Klutch SL14 18x8.5 et42 Silver Machined - $1372 (plus $1000 for new tires)
Looking at the above wheels I think the F1R F21 looks really well integrated with the CrownVic particularly with my chromed honeycomb grille. I think the Klutch SL14 s very similar in that 18in. wheels immediately make the car look sportier while these also add grand touring look to the car. And both wheels look almost like factory options--if Ford had ever offered anything like these for the car. The Klutch also looks a bit oldschool with its convex design as opposed to the concave design that is prominant today.
The XXR 555 looks badass. It gives the car a different look and feel. The car looks more serious and more fun. It also suggest other modifications beyond stock (which I already have and intend more) while the F1R and Klutch are more lowkey and unobtrusive. It's also the bargain of the three because I can keep my existing tires and an 18in. wheel will not perform noticeably better in daily driving than a 17in. if the tire width is the same.
Narrowed down to three the issue is which one I like the look of best.
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the misc forum section does not have a car thead either? IDK. but yeah.. 
When I started on this journey back when I bought the wheels I currently have it was an education as I learned that something that looks relatively simple actually involves a lot to consider.
When I bought my first set of wheels one of the first things I learned was how limited your choices could be based on local availability. The shops in my area that sold alloy wheels were limited by the distributors they had to work with and thus limited my choices if I dealt strictly with them. But we now live in the age of online shopping where very little is out of reach and often at a savings. I quickly learned I could get whatever wheels I wanted, have them shipped directly to me and save money by eliminating the middleman. I then took the wheels to my local mechanic who mounted them for me. I could have done the same thing with tires, but at the time our local Canadian Tire had a sale on the exact tires I wanted and I got them through them. If I had wanted to I could even have had the wheels I ordred shipped directly to the mechanic and saved myself the trouble of bringing my new wheels to him to install. This time around I will probably do that.
Another thing I learned that living in Canada sometimes limits choices or at least involves a bit more effort and money. A year and a half ago I bought a dual exhaust system for my car. The Stainless Works system I wanted was not easily available in Canada. It looked like I would have to have them shipped in from the U.S., involving a hefty shipping charge. But I found the SW system on a Black Friday sale with free shipping (to anywhere in the continental U.S.). So I ordered it and had it shipped to the UPS Store in Ogdensberg NY which is only twenty-five minutes away across the border from where I live in Brockville, Ontario. Problem solved and I saved myself a few hundred dollars. I did much the same with my Eibach front and rear sway bar kits. There are a few other bits I want for my car down the road and I'll likely go that route again.
Fortunately the wheels and tires I am looking at are easily available in Canada.
My chromed honeycomb grille I ordered through Amazon and installed it myself as well as the larger Ford insignia I needed for the grille centre. That larger insignia is actually meant for the tailgate of a Ford F-150 pickup, but it fit in place perfectly. The factory Crown Victoria molded splashguards I ordered through Eastgate Ford Parts Canada since my local Ford dealer seemed unable to get them. The headlight relay harness (for better night lighting) is a custom made unit I ordered through someone I met on crownvic.net message forum. I credit crownvic.net with a lot of what I've learned about these cars particularly regarding upgrades. And it was through crownvic.net I learned of adtr.net which specializes in CrownVic and Mustang performance parts (and from where I bought the SW exhaust system).
I will say that messaging with others interested in modifying their cars you come across some...interesting viewpoints. People modify their cars from mild to wild and there are things people do I personally find baffling given they are modifying their daily drivers rather than race cars. Yet they can be almost fanatic about the supposed gains they get from the performance mods they do. In the end I suspect it's more about appearance than genuine performance gains. True if the car were really nothing more than a conveyance then we would probably do nothing to it. But a car can be a source of pleasure and enjoyment just as food can be more than mere nourishment.
When I bought my first set of wheels one of the first things I learned was how limited your choices could be based on local availability. The shops in my area that sold alloy wheels were limited by the distributors they had to work with and thus limited my choices if I dealt strictly with them. But we now live in the age of online shopping where very little is out of reach and often at a savings. I quickly learned I could get whatever wheels I wanted, have them shipped directly to me and save money by eliminating the middleman. I then took the wheels to my local mechanic who mounted them for me. I could have done the same thing with tires, but at the time our local Canadian Tire had a sale on the exact tires I wanted and I got them through them. If I had wanted to I could even have had the wheels I ordred shipped directly to the mechanic and saved myself the trouble of bringing my new wheels to him to install. This time around I will probably do that.
Another thing I learned that living in Canada sometimes limits choices or at least involves a bit more effort and money. A year and a half ago I bought a dual exhaust system for my car. The Stainless Works system I wanted was not easily available in Canada. It looked like I would have to have them shipped in from the U.S., involving a hefty shipping charge. But I found the SW system on a Black Friday sale with free shipping (to anywhere in the continental U.S.). So I ordered it and had it shipped to the UPS Store in Ogdensberg NY which is only twenty-five minutes away across the border from where I live in Brockville, Ontario. Problem solved and I saved myself a few hundred dollars. I did much the same with my Eibach front and rear sway bar kits. There are a few other bits I want for my car down the road and I'll likely go that route again.
Fortunately the wheels and tires I am looking at are easily available in Canada.
My chromed honeycomb grille I ordered through Amazon and installed it myself as well as the larger Ford insignia I needed for the grille centre. That larger insignia is actually meant for the tailgate of a Ford F-150 pickup, but it fit in place perfectly. The factory Crown Victoria molded splashguards I ordered through Eastgate Ford Parts Canada since my local Ford dealer seemed unable to get them. The headlight relay harness (for better night lighting) is a custom made unit I ordered through someone I met on crownvic.net message forum. I credit crownvic.net with a lot of what I've learned about these cars particularly regarding upgrades. And it was through crownvic.net I learned of adtr.net which specializes in CrownVic and Mustang performance parts (and from where I bought the SW exhaust system).
I will say that messaging with others interested in modifying their cars you come across some...interesting viewpoints. People modify their cars from mild to wild and there are things people do I personally find baffling given they are modifying their daily drivers rather than race cars. Yet they can be almost fanatic about the supposed gains they get from the performance mods they do. In the end I suspect it's more about appearance than genuine performance gains. True if the car were really nothing more than a conveyance then we would probably do nothing to it. But a car can be a source of pleasure and enjoyment just as food can be more than mere nourishment.
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Out of those 2, I think the XXR 555 is a better looking rim, but the other ones look more natural on a Crown Vic.
The XXR 555 will be easier to clean.
The XXR 555 will be easier to clean.
Having more spokes can take longer to clean, but as long as there is enough space between spokes it’s not bad. A wire mesh style, which some of the early choices were, could be a pain to get thoroughly clean. Yes, the XXR, like any 5-spoke design, would be easiest to clean. The late ‘90s to early 2000s CrownVics had wire style wheels available from the factory only they were 16in.
Many of the best wheels look well integrated almost as if they were factory options. There is a lot of appeal in that and it looks more lowkey. Having such wheels in a larger size than factory ever offered makes the car look better and sportier.
The CrownVic LX Sport package offered larger 17in. wheels, but they were a much simpler and rather bland design. It looked better than stock 16 ins., but almost anything aftermarket was an improvement. Even the 2003-2004 Mercury Marauder, a more serious performance option, had 18in. 5-spoke wheels that, while better, were rather tame looking (in my opinion). There were a number of different styled 18in. Mustang wheels available to Ford that would have fit and looked better on the Marauder. Cobra or Saleen wheels would have looked very cool.
The F1R F21 is a lowkey design on its own, but it pops when on the car. It looks like a natural fit. The XXR 555 is the bolder choice. It’s a matter of taste whether it looks out of place or not on the car, but I like it very much and I think it works on the car. They each appeal to me in a different way.
I will say the colour of my current wheels—hyper silver—can be rather cool. Depending on lighting it can look regular silver, bright silver or even polished metal.
My dad’s previous car to this one was also a Panther—a ‘93 Mercury Grand Marquis. I didn’t care for that car even though it was essentially the same body. I didn’t like the grey colour (Twilight Gray Metallic), I didn’t like the front and rear end design, I didn’t like the wheels or plushy light grey fabric interior, and I didn’t like the extra degree of bright trim all around. And I didn’t like the too cushy ride and soft handling. Although better it reminded me of the leviathan ‘73 Mercury Meteor my Dad once had and the car in which I learned to drive. That car felt like a terrifying isolation chamber in motion.
The ‘04 CrownVic was a huge improvement in every way and I liked the look of it right off. When it was gifted to me after Dad passed away I just had make it more my own and hence the upgrades. That said I fuss over it some like Dad did (he took good care of all his cars). And if I listen to some old school country music while driving it feels like Dad is riding with me.
My dad’s previous car to this one was also a Panther—a ‘93 Mercury Grand Marquis. I didn’t care for that car even though it was essentially the same body. I didn’t like the grey colour (Twilight Gray Metallic), I didn’t like the front and rear end design, I didn’t like the wheels or plushy light grey fabric interior, and I didn’t like the extra degree of bright trim all around. And I didn’t like the too cushy ride and soft handling. Although better it reminded me of the leviathan ‘73 Mercury Meteor my Dad once had and the car in which I learned to drive. That car felt like a terrifying isolation chamber in motion.
The ‘04 CrownVic was a huge improvement in every way and I liked the look of it right off. When it was gifted to me after Dad passed away I just had make it more my own and hence the upgrades. That said I fuss over it some like Dad did (he took good care of all his cars). And if I listen to some old school country music while driving it feels like Dad is riding with me.
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My 2019 Grand Cherokee came with these rims. Not as simple as the nice 5 spoke ones that were on the 2015, but what a nightmare it was when they got paving tar all over them last year.
Truth is you really can’t obsess over keeping a daily driver clean—it will drive you crazy. You have to be able to tolerate a degree of daily dust. Anything corrosive like bird shit, bug guts or tree sap should be cleaned off ASAP or it will take its toll on the paint.
Automatic drive-thu car washes or washing with a brush are no-nos in my book as you’re rubbing something hard against the paint—it will take its toll. Washing by hand or with a hose without too much pressure are better I believe. Today’s paints are far superior to the finishes of old, but they should still be waxed periodically to preserve the finish and bring out the lustre. Winter road salt shouldn’t hurt until the temperature starts to get too warm then it should be washed off to avoid damage. Wheels can also be waxed to protect them further and make them really shine. Tires can turn brown over time even when cleaned regularly as a compound in the rubber naturally comes out. That brownish colouring can be cleaned off and the wheels returned to natural black with a good tire shiner.
I resist using Armour All as it leaves a greasy feeling residue. There are better cleaners that clean and help preserve the materials while leaving them looking new and natural without the unnatural shine and greasy residue.
Tire cleaning foam can also be used to clean under the hood. The engine is completely sealed so you can’t hurt anything. Spray the foam where you want to clean, let sit for 15-20 minutes then spray it off with a hose or a lawn leaf blower. You will still have to wipe some spots with a cloth.
My Dad has always driven Fords except once when he bought a '86 Volkswagen Golf Wolfsburg Edition 4dr. with a manual transmission. He actually liked that car very much and was happy with it, but in '93 he traded it for the Grand Marquis.
His first car was a new two-tone white and green '57 Ford Ranchero he drove for two years before trading it for a '59 Ford Custom 300 sedan in blue. The Ranchero (I was told) had recurring transmission issues which is why he traded it. The '59 had a 6cyl. Dad drove the piss out of yet it would not die or miss a beat. That car I remember somewhat because I was born the year he bought it and I was 7 when he finally traded it in for his '66 Ford Galaxie 500, 2dr. fastback, black with red interior and 289 V8--very cool. He gave it to my older brother when he bought his '73 Mercury Meteor Silver Anniversary Edition with 400 V8--monster of a car.
Dad's '59 Ford. This pic is from 1965 (I believe). We had gone down to My grandfather's place in south eastern Quebec for the holidays and one morning we woke up to find the car had disappeared--buried in a heavy snowfall overnight with the radio antenna the only thing visible to mark where the car was.
Dad with his '66 Galaxie in the late '60s or early '70s. We were coming back from visiting my Uncle Wilfred and his family in Port Perry, Ontario. Dad was getting a blanket out of the trunk so we could eat fruit in the back seat without making a mess.
Automatic drive-thu car washes or washing with a brush are no-nos in my book as you’re rubbing something hard against the paint—it will take its toll. Washing by hand or with a hose without too much pressure are better I believe. Today’s paints are far superior to the finishes of old, but they should still be waxed periodically to preserve the finish and bring out the lustre. Winter road salt shouldn’t hurt until the temperature starts to get too warm then it should be washed off to avoid damage. Wheels can also be waxed to protect them further and make them really shine. Tires can turn brown over time even when cleaned regularly as a compound in the rubber naturally comes out. That brownish colouring can be cleaned off and the wheels returned to natural black with a good tire shiner.
I resist using Armour All as it leaves a greasy feeling residue. There are better cleaners that clean and help preserve the materials while leaving them looking new and natural without the unnatural shine and greasy residue.
Tire cleaning foam can also be used to clean under the hood. The engine is completely sealed so you can’t hurt anything. Spray the foam where you want to clean, let sit for 15-20 minutes then spray it off with a hose or a lawn leaf blower. You will still have to wipe some spots with a cloth.
My Dad has always driven Fords except once when he bought a '86 Volkswagen Golf Wolfsburg Edition 4dr. with a manual transmission. He actually liked that car very much and was happy with it, but in '93 he traded it for the Grand Marquis.
His first car was a new two-tone white and green '57 Ford Ranchero he drove for two years before trading it for a '59 Ford Custom 300 sedan in blue. The Ranchero (I was told) had recurring transmission issues which is why he traded it. The '59 had a 6cyl. Dad drove the piss out of yet it would not die or miss a beat. That car I remember somewhat because I was born the year he bought it and I was 7 when he finally traded it in for his '66 Ford Galaxie 500, 2dr. fastback, black with red interior and 289 V8--very cool. He gave it to my older brother when he bought his '73 Mercury Meteor Silver Anniversary Edition with 400 V8--monster of a car.
Dad's '59 Ford. This pic is from 1965 (I believe). We had gone down to My grandfather's place in south eastern Quebec for the holidays and one morning we woke up to find the car had disappeared--buried in a heavy snowfall overnight with the radio antenna the only thing visible to mark where the car was.
Dad with his '66 Galaxie in the late '60s or early '70s. We were coming back from visiting my Uncle Wilfred and his family in Port Perry, Ontario. Dad was getting a blanket out of the trunk so we could eat fruit in the back seat without making a mess.
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My opinion, the Crown Vic is timeless, so you want something classic, not "sporty". These are the two that speak to me. The first has a simple elegance, but the second has a more sophisticated design.
Hope that helps. Nice car. Take good care of it, and you'll be able to pass it down to your grand-kids.
AViD1 AV34 17x8 Hyper Black w. Machined Lip
Klutch SLC1 18x8.5 Silver w. Machined Face
Hope that helps. Nice car. Take good care of it, and you'll be able to pass it down to your grand-kids.
Maybe one of my nephews or neices. I don't have any kids or grandkids.
The Klutch SLC1 is often seen on smaller import cars like Honda Civics, VW Golfs and the like by the tuners who often like to lower their cars as well. I just thought I would photoshop it on the CrownVic to see what it would look like. And you might be surprised to see what wheels some put on their CrownVics. I've seen wheels definitely more radical than anything I've considered here.
The Klutch SLC1 is often seen on smaller import cars like Honda Civics, VW Golfs and the like by the tuners who often like to lower their cars as well. I just thought I would photoshop it on the CrownVic to see what it would look like. And you might be surprised to see what wheels some put on their CrownVics. I've seen wheels definitely more radical than anything I've considered here.
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Although I had dismissed the Klutch SL14 as a final selection I would like to comment on it further given my eyes keep drifting back to it.
There are reasons this is an expensive wheel (although you can spend hundreds to thousands more). One of the key distinctions is this isn't a wheel where accommodations were made to cut costs. By that I mean it isn't unusual for lower cost wheels to be able to fit more than one size bolt pattern. CrownVics (like most if not all Fords) have a 5x114.3 or 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Other cars can have 5x100, 5x115, 5x120 and other bolt patterns. On many lower cost wheels the manufacturer often combines two different bolt patterns into one wheel thus lowering costs of manufacture because the wheel can fit many more models of cars. For example you can have a wheel that has a 5x100/5x114.3 or 5x114.3/5x120 where two bolt patterns are designed into the wheel. The XXR 555 is a design with two bolt patterns built into it. On some wheels, particularly of lighter colour, this can be quite apparent as an alternating set of bolt holes are still visible after the appropriate lug nuts have already been installed. On wheels with darker coloured hubs, such as the XXR 555, this would be less apparent.
The Klutch SL14 doesn't have this dual bolt pattern feature. Each wheel is designed specifically for one bolt pattern solely. This makes for a cleaner looking wheel without unneeded bolt holes. Klutch also caters a bit more to the upper end of the entry level wheel market. Despite it's lowkey design it is a well made and expensive looking wheel.
There was a time some years ago when convex shaped wheels were quite popular, but style trends change like any fashion and presently concave style wheels are predominant. That is partly why I find the Klutch SL14 appealing because it is not a current mainstream design. It looks somehat oldshool and with its machined finish it looks well integrated with the CrownVic's style.
Even so I find myself ever more leaning toward the XXR 555. It's certainly not lowkey and looks more dynamic than any of the others. I think it draws the eye more whereas the others like the F1R and Klutch look almost like factory options (albeit bigger). The F1R looks really nice. The XXR looks really nice and extra cool. The F1R makes the CrownVic a really nice looking car. The XXR makes it look rather wicked and something more than a really nice looking CrownVic.
I'm not a hundred percent decided, but I am leaning that way.
There are reasons this is an expensive wheel (although you can spend hundreds to thousands more). One of the key distinctions is this isn't a wheel where accommodations were made to cut costs. By that I mean it isn't unusual for lower cost wheels to be able to fit more than one size bolt pattern. CrownVics (like most if not all Fords) have a 5x114.3 or 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Other cars can have 5x100, 5x115, 5x120 and other bolt patterns. On many lower cost wheels the manufacturer often combines two different bolt patterns into one wheel thus lowering costs of manufacture because the wheel can fit many more models of cars. For example you can have a wheel that has a 5x100/5x114.3 or 5x114.3/5x120 where two bolt patterns are designed into the wheel. The XXR 555 is a design with two bolt patterns built into it. On some wheels, particularly of lighter colour, this can be quite apparent as an alternating set of bolt holes are still visible after the appropriate lug nuts have already been installed. On wheels with darker coloured hubs, such as the XXR 555, this would be less apparent.
The Klutch SL14 doesn't have this dual bolt pattern feature. Each wheel is designed specifically for one bolt pattern solely. This makes for a cleaner looking wheel without unneeded bolt holes. Klutch also caters a bit more to the upper end of the entry level wheel market. Despite it's lowkey design it is a well made and expensive looking wheel.
There was a time some years ago when convex shaped wheels were quite popular, but style trends change like any fashion and presently concave style wheels are predominant. That is partly why I find the Klutch SL14 appealing because it is not a current mainstream design. It looks somehat oldshool and with its machined finish it looks well integrated with the CrownVic's style.
Even so I find myself ever more leaning toward the XXR 555. It's certainly not lowkey and looks more dynamic than any of the others. I think it draws the eye more whereas the others like the F1R and Klutch look almost like factory options (albeit bigger). The F1R looks really nice. The XXR looks really nice and extra cool. The F1R makes the CrownVic a really nice looking car. The XXR makes it look rather wicked and something more than a really nice looking CrownVic.
I'm not a hundred percent decided, but I am leaning that way.
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I posted an image of this upthread, but I wasn't that happy with it. This is a better look at the Enkei Tenjin 17x8 for those who might have liked it.
I had noticed this wheel before, but never found any usable images of it. Now I have and I think it looks pretty good on the car. This is the NS M01 17x8 w. 35 offset. Like the XXR 555 I like the way the spokes tuck into the centre rather than being more flat faced. Another nice detail is that there are no extra bolt holes--each wheel is made for a specific wheel bolt pattern.
An inconvenience if interested in this wheel is it doesn't seem to be available from a Canadian supplier. So if I wanted this wheel I would have to wait until cross border travel is open again then I could order it from the U.S. and pick it up at the UPS store in Ogdensburg NY.
I had noticed this wheel before, but never found any usable images of it. Now I have and I think it looks pretty good on the car. This is the NS M01 17x8 w. 35 offset. Like the XXR 555 I like the way the spokes tuck into the centre rather than being more flat faced. Another nice detail is that there are no extra bolt holes--each wheel is made for a specific wheel bolt pattern.
An inconvenience if interested in this wheel is it doesn't seem to be available from a Canadian supplier. So if I wanted this wheel I would have to wait until cross border travel is open again then I could order it from the U.S. and pick it up at the UPS store in Ogdensburg NY.
Besides wheels there are other upgrades I'm interested in doing.
- Rear upper and lower control arms and Watts link upgrade. Tightens up the rear end in handling.
- Marauder air intake with high intake tube and throttlebody. This is the same intake found on the 2003-2004 Mercury Marauder. This would also require a custom computer tune. Benefit is quicker and stronger throttle response along with added power.
- Red caliper covers. This is purely cosmetic and also largely depends on which wheels I would choose. A 5-spoke design has more open space that reveals your brake discs and calipers. Unless one is willing to go to major expense and inconevience to have their calipers painted then covers are the easier option to cover factory brakes. However, wheels like the F1R F21 would likely not really show the factory calipers.
- 3:27 or 3:55 final gears. I am really torn about maybe doing this. I’m not a hard driver and I'm undecided about the performance benefit--basically is it really wrth it, opening up the transmission to replace the final gears. Yes, the car will launch and accelerate more quickly with this upgrade. CrownVic Police Interceptors were equipped with these gears. PIs assigned mostly to city duty usually had 3:55 gears while highway cruisers usually had 3:27 gears. A lot of Mustangs have 3:55 gears. 3:55 would give the greater performance benefit while 3:27 will increase performance while sacrificing little in fuel economy. Generally I lean toward the 3:27 upgrade although the cost would be exactly the same no matter the choice. Some CrownVic owners have gone with even more performance with 3:73 or 4:10 gears, but then they're willing to pay for the noticeable penalty in fuel economy.
Upgrading the final gears is more involved and time consuming than upgrading the air intake. Also if the car isn’t already equipped with a limited slip differential (which mine isn’t) then that has to be swapped as well. There is no doubt I would see an immediate performance benefit, but I’m still unsure whether it is worth it.
- Rear upper and lower control arms and Watts link upgrade. Tightens up the rear end in handling.
- Marauder air intake with high intake tube and throttlebody. This is the same intake found on the 2003-2004 Mercury Marauder. This would also require a custom computer tune. Benefit is quicker and stronger throttle response along with added power.
- Red caliper covers. This is purely cosmetic and also largely depends on which wheels I would choose. A 5-spoke design has more open space that reveals your brake discs and calipers. Unless one is willing to go to major expense and inconevience to have their calipers painted then covers are the easier option to cover factory brakes. However, wheels like the F1R F21 would likely not really show the factory calipers.
- 3:27 or 3:55 final gears. I am really torn about maybe doing this. I’m not a hard driver and I'm undecided about the performance benefit--basically is it really wrth it, opening up the transmission to replace the final gears. Yes, the car will launch and accelerate more quickly with this upgrade. CrownVic Police Interceptors were equipped with these gears. PIs assigned mostly to city duty usually had 3:55 gears while highway cruisers usually had 3:27 gears. A lot of Mustangs have 3:55 gears. 3:55 would give the greater performance benefit while 3:27 will increase performance while sacrificing little in fuel economy. Generally I lean toward the 3:27 upgrade although the cost would be exactly the same no matter the choice. Some CrownVic owners have gone with even more performance with 3:73 or 4:10 gears, but then they're willing to pay for the noticeable penalty in fuel economy.
Upgrading the final gears is more involved and time consuming than upgrading the air intake. Also if the car isn’t already equipped with a limited slip differential (which mine isn’t) then that has to be swapped as well. There is no doubt I would see an immediate performance benefit, but I’m still unsure whether it is worth it.
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Why am I posting this again? Because I just realized I made an error in my earlier photomanip of this wheel on the car--I mistakenly sized them as 18in. rather than 17in. wheels.
So this is what the XXR 555 17x8 would actually look like on the car.
It looks a bit different than before, but I still like it. And, yes, I'm still torn between this and the F1R F21 18x8.5.
Something to note, which I might have already mentioned somewhere upthread, is the XXR 17x8 is a bit wider than my current 17x7.5 and along with the 35 offset will poke out 1/2 in. more than my current 42 offset. As such it will give the car a subtlely different stance than presently. The rear wheels will certainly look more flush with the fenders than they do now.
And as I already mentioned upthread there is a cost benefit to going with the XXRs--I get to keep my current tires which have very little mileage on them. And so the near $1000 I would spend on new tires for 18in. wheels I could put toward other upgrades I have in mind. That $1000 would cover the rear control arms and Watts link upgrades along with the red brake caliper covers to accent the XXR wheels.
Yeah, I'm leaning evermore to the XXR for the win.
So this is what the XXR 555 17x8 would actually look like on the car.
It looks a bit different than before, but I still like it. And, yes, I'm still torn between this and the F1R F21 18x8.5.
Something to note, which I might have already mentioned somewhere upthread, is the XXR 17x8 is a bit wider than my current 17x7.5 and along with the 35 offset will poke out 1/2 in. more than my current 42 offset. As such it will give the car a subtlely different stance than presently. The rear wheels will certainly look more flush with the fenders than they do now.
And as I already mentioned upthread there is a cost benefit to going with the XXRs--I get to keep my current tires which have very little mileage on them. And so the near $1000 I would spend on new tires for 18in. wheels I could put toward other upgrades I have in mind. That $1000 would cover the rear control arms and Watts link upgrades along with the red brake caliper covers to accent the XXR wheels.
Yeah, I'm leaning evermore to the XXR for the win.
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