• Welcome! The TrekBBS is the number one place to chat about Star Trek with like-minded fans.
    If you are not already a member then please register an account and join in the discussion!

Entropy Claims My Darling Jetta - Car Trading/Buying Advice Sought

Current Honda Accords have some issues with the electrics..

Thanks for the heads up on the Accord's electrical problems. After my recent experiences, I definitely want to avoid those.

This is news to me. I've driven mine for about a year and a half now and am a member at a number of Accord forums and have yet to notice anything close to a widespread issue with the electrical systems.
 
No Toyota love from this crowd?

My first two cars were ANCIENT Toyotas, and they were rock-solid reliable. My 10-year old Corolla started up every day in the dead of Boston winter - I sometimes had to jumpstart my brother's new Subaru from it! :lol: It cost me $700 in 1986, and I sold it for $500 in 1989 (with almost 200,000 miles on it).

Our current Prius has 170,000 miles and not a single failure (other than standard maintenance).

The reported problems with sticking accelerators haven't changed my opinion ... Audi had similar issues, which all turned out to be due to drivers being idiots. I've had zero problems with my three Toyotas, and I'd definitely buy one again. (And because of the controversy over the acceleration issues, you can get them cheaper than ever.)

Bears, how much are you looking to spend?
 
No Toyota love from this crowd?

My first two cars were ANCIENT Toyotas, and they were rock-solid reliable. My 10-year old Corolla started up every day in the dead of Boston winter - I sometimes had to jumpstart my brother's new Subaru from it! :lol: It cost me $700 in 1986, and I sold it for $500 in 1989 (with almost 200,000 miles on it).

Our current Prius has 170,000 miles and not a single failure (other than standard maintenance).

The reported problems with sticking accelerators haven't changed my opinion ... Audi had similar issues, which all turned out to be due to drivers being idiots. I've had zero problems with my three Toyotas, and I'd definitely buy one again. (And because of the controversy over the acceleration issues, you can get them cheaper than ever.)

Bears, how much are you looking to spend?

My sister's beat to hell, poorly mantained 2002 Camry, upon which she's put 200k miles of absolute sadism, still runs great. All she's dealt with is a minor oil leak that cost her a few hundred bucks to fix.

So typical of my sister and I. I take care of my braces, I have to wear them an extra year. She doesn't even brush her teeth when she gets braces, she gets them off 6 months early. She abuses her car, it runs and runs, I take great care of my car, it farts out on me at 125K miles...:rofl:

Toyota was offering new Corollas with 0% APR for a while after the big sticking pedal controversy happened, but the promotion no longer seems to be running :( I'm not too spooked by the publicized accelerator incidents, especially when independent study found driver error was responsible for the majority of the reported cases.

As for what I'm willing to spend, at the top of my budget, I'm willing to put up to 12K down, and I don't wish to pay more than $300/mo for 24 months afterward. Ideally, I'd like to pay up to 10K cash out the door for a decent used car, and not bother with payments at all. I HATE monthly payments.

May I ask if your routine mantainence on your Prius has been more expensive than the gas-powered cars you've owned?
 
May I ask if your routine mantainence on your Prius has been more expensive than the gas-powered cars you've owned?
Not at all ... in fact, the brakes and tires have held up better and haven't had to be replaced as often as our other cars (that's partly due to the fact that we're consciously trying to drive more gently with the Prius to get better mileage, though - it's like a game to see if we can get each tank over 50 mpg). :)
 
OK resurrecting this thread so you all can laugh at me. Hard. Go ahead, yuk it up.

Shortly after discovering that the car was marooned in my carport because it wouldn't read my foot depressing the brake pedal to release it from Park into gear, my battery died again.

Well this was frustrating. One more freaking issue to deal with. I didn't want to replace the battery, doubting I could recoup even the relatively low cost of the battery on trade in with this gremlin-infested hell machine, I was DONE putting any sort of money into the car. Pissed off and at my wits end, I said fuck it, I'll just take the bus while I decide what to do.

Meanwhile, the car sat in the car port, totally dead, not turning over at all, not responding to anything, collecting dust. LOTS of dust. My carport is a dirty place, but with no access to a spigot, no garden hose, and no way to get it to a car wash, oh well.

I came down this morning to do laundry, and to my absolute surprise, someone washed the car for me. That's right, whoever it was took it upon themselves to break into the locked gate where the spigots are & hit my dead car with a garden hose and knock off the 1/4 inch of black dust that had accumulated all over it.

Now instead of having a broken down, filthy car, I now had a broken down, shiny and clean car!

I have no idea who did this (probably a pissed off neighbor tired of brushing against it on the way to the laundry room and coming away blackened), but I christen them the Car Wash Fairy. Thank you, Car Wash Fairy!

:adore:

Feeling inspired by Car Wash Fairy's generosity, I said, you know, its been sitting like this for weeks, I should just call AAA and replace the damned battery, it will be one less excuse for whoever buys this car from me to knock the selling price even lower than its already abysmal prospects. So I bit the bullet and paid $125 for a new battery, figuring it would be one less thing to fret over if nothing else.

Well, lo and behold.

The moment the AAA guy says, "ok, try to start the car..." and I turn it over, the idle pops back up to normal, the A/C cranks gloriously frigid air full blast in my face, so hold my breath, press the break, and say wakkala...the shifter moves effortlessly out of Park and into gear.

HAAAlejulah!

The freakin' battery has been slowly dying over the course of several months, delivering ever sporatic, reduced voltages to my various systems, causing them to malfunction. New battery, almost everything went back to normal immediately.

I did a triumphant cruise around the neighborhood, playing "Chariots of Fire" in my head the whole trip.

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rommie::guffaw::bolian:

The alarm is still not responding, but I'm not really carin', and I'm am SO relieved that I dragged my feet and bitched and moaned and took the bus instead of rushing out and dropping 10K+ on another car right away. I'm also more than a little embarrassed that such an obvious, simple solution to these frustrating problems was staring me in the face this whole time yet didn't occur to me despite my knowing that the battery was well past its natural life, and more than a little pissed that my mechanic chased after all this crap and took my money without saying to me, 'y'know, maybe we should test the battery as our first step in the process of elimination...' I'm a bit of an idiot and he's a bit of an asshole. I guess we're a match made in rip-off heaven.

Haven't ruled out buying another car, but I hope I've bought a few more months at least with the Darling Jetta. No doubt more mechanical issues are on the horizon, but I drive the car so infrequently that I hope I can put some serious distance between myself and them for now.
 
^ bloody epic man. great that you got it working. although electrical problems with the bora's are quite common.
had a similar encounter when some jerk shoved a screwdriver through the gas tank of my car. i had even removed the entire freaking engine by the time i realized the problem.
 
Car electrical systems are weird. Battery shorts make them doubly so...

I had a car once, driving down the road, and then suddenly at night, next thing dark, engine dies, nothing. I start looking for the ufo.

After coasting to the side of the road, I take the key from the ignition and try hazard flashers; the interior light started blinking. Like you I thought, "This car is toast..." I took out the battery, replaced it, and everything was fine. The guy at the store said that battery shorts do weird thing. Go figure.

Glad your good to go, drive well...
 
Shoulda immediately driven it to be traded in. Let the dealer think the car is in better shape than it is.
 
Well at least it gave you one last good drive.

I'd hardly call 'around the block' and '2 miles to Aaron Brothers' an epic good drive. :lol:

Shoulda immediately driven it to be traded in. Let the dealer think the car is in better shape than it is.

Hindsight 20/20. What can I say, I was relieved about NOT having to hand over savings intended to get me out my current job & help me through school. I thought, 'thank god, that's 10K + I get to keep."

The relief was premature.
 
Something to think about..

There is a Recall on this safety item with the brake switch:

Safety Recall N4
Covers:
1998-2002 VW Beetle with Cruise Control and 1999-2002 VW Jetta with cruise control
REPLACE BRAKE SWITCH Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS AND CRUISE CONTROLS, A BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ON THESE VEHICLES MAY MALFUNCTION IF IT WAS INSTALLED INCORRECTLY DURING SAFETY RECALLS 03V-265 OR 04V-096.
Consequence Summary: THE BRAKE LIGHTS COULD BECOME INOPERATIVE, OR REMAIN ON. FAILURE TO PROVIDE THE PROPER SIGNAL WHEN BRAKING COULD LEAD TO A CRASH WITHOUT WARNING.
Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL INSTALL THE NEWLY DESIGNED BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 27, 2006. VEHICLES WITHIN THE MAKE, MODEL, AND MODEL YEAR OF THIS POPULATION MAY BE INVOLVED IN EITHER THIS RECALL OR 06V-183, BUT NOT BOTH. THE REMEDY IS THE SAME FOR EACH RECALL. VOLKSWAGEN DEALERS WILL APPLY THE REMEDY BASED ON THE VIN NUMBER OF THE VEHICLE. OWNERS MAY CONTACT VW AT 1-800-822-8987

This switch has also been linked to Shifter lock issues with the same models of cars..


There is an electrical solenoid located beneath the shift lever assembly that 'locks' the transmission shift lever in the PARK position unless the engine in running and the brake pedal is depressed. The formal name for this part is 'N376 Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid'. This lock serves two purposes, first is anti-theft, and second is child safety - the shift lever cannot be moved out of PARK unless an adult is pressing the brake pedal at the same time. My guess is that the big metal locking pin that comprises the only moving part of this solenoid is sticking - for some reason, it is not fully retracting into the electro-magnet.
I will provide you with all the information you need to troubleshoot and resolve this problem, however, there is also a (less likely) possibility that the problem is caused by a pawl, located way down in the transmission itself, not releasing from the gear that it engages to actually prevent the car from rolling away when you put the shift lever in park. If you are parking your car on an inclined surface (i.e. nose or tail of the car is pointing uphill), then check to see if the problem goes away when the car is parked on a flat surface. If the problem exists when the car is parked on a flat surface, then it is most likely the Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid, not the pawl in the transmission itself. If the problem exists when the car is parked on an inclined surface, then it might be the pawl in the transmission that is sticking, not the safety solenoid on the shift lever.
Another way of troubleshooting to eliminate the transmission locking pawl as a possible suspect is to do the following:
1) Drive the car into the desired parking position.
2) With the car still in gear (forward or reverse, does not matter), engage the foot-operated parking brake.
3) Remove your other foot from the main brake pedal. The car will probably move one inch or so forward or backward.
4) When the car stops moving, THEN put the transmission shift lever in PARK.
The next morning, start the car, and move the transmission lever out of PARK before releasing the parking brake. If you find it is really easy to move the transmission lever out of PARK when you follow the five steps listed above, then the problem is with the pawl in the transmission itself. If you still have difficulty moving the shift lever out of PARK, then the problem is most likely with the Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid, not the actual transmission. Below you will find a picture that shows where the N376 Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid is located. It is easy to get at this part. Just follow the dis-assembly instructions shown on the Retrofitting Keyless Start to North American Phaetons post, then, with the engine running, see if the locking pin moves freely and completely in and out of the solenoid when you put your foot on the brake, and see if it freely and easily slides back out (into the locked position) when you take your foot off the brake. If there is any binding or hesitation in the movement of the locking pin, look for evidence of something that would be interfering with the free movement of the pin - for example, spilled Coke or coffee, a cable in the way, a dust-ball, or similar. I don't think it is normally necessary to lubricate this pin, and VW does not specify a lubricant, but you could probably give it a light dusting of powdered graphite, just to ensure it moves freely. At the same time, have a look to make sure there is no damage or evidence of binding to the opening in the shift lever assembly that the locking pin fits into when you have the shift lever assembly in PARK.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2292493
 
Something to think about..

There is a Recall on this safety item with the brake switch:

Safety Recall N4
Covers:
1998-2002 VW Beetle with Cruise Control and 1999-2002 VW Jetta with cruise control
REPLACE BRAKE SWITCH Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS AND CRUISE CONTROLS, A BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ON THESE VEHICLES MAY MALFUNCTION IF IT WAS INSTALLED INCORRECTLY DURING SAFETY RECALLS 03V-265 OR 04V-096.
Consequence Summary: THE BRAKE LIGHTS COULD BECOME INOPERATIVE, OR REMAIN ON. FAILURE TO PROVIDE THE PROPER SIGNAL WHEN BRAKING COULD LEAD TO A CRASH WITHOUT WARNING.
Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL INSTALL THE NEWLY DESIGNED BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 27, 2006. VEHICLES WITHIN THE MAKE, MODEL, AND MODEL YEAR OF THIS POPULATION MAY BE INVOLVED IN EITHER THIS RECALL OR 06V-183, BUT NOT BOTH. THE REMEDY IS THE SAME FOR EACH RECALL. VOLKSWAGEN DEALERS WILL APPLY THE REMEDY BASED ON THE VIN NUMBER OF THE VEHICLE. OWNERS MAY CONTACT VW AT 1-800-822-8987
This switch has also been linked to Shifter lock issues with the same models of cars..


There is an electrical solenoid located beneath the shift lever assembly that 'locks' the transmission shift lever in the PARK position unless the engine in running and the brake pedal is depressed. The formal name for this part is 'N376 Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid'. This lock serves two purposes, first is anti-theft, and second is child safety - the shift lever cannot be moved out of PARK unless an adult is pressing the brake pedal at the same time. My guess is that the big metal locking pin that comprises the only moving part of this solenoid is sticking - for some reason, it is not fully retracting into the electro-magnet.
I will provide you with all the information you need to troubleshoot and resolve this problem, however, there is also a (less likely) possibility that the problem is caused by a pawl, located way down in the transmission itself, not releasing from the gear that it engages to actually prevent the car from rolling away when you put the shift lever in park. If you are parking your car on an inclined surface (i.e. nose or tail of the car is pointing uphill), then check to see if the problem goes away when the car is parked on a flat surface. If the problem exists when the car is parked on a flat surface, then it is most likely the Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid, not the pawl in the transmission itself. If the problem exists when the car is parked on an inclined surface, then it might be the pawl in the transmission that is sticking, not the safety solenoid on the shift lever.
Another way of troubleshooting to eliminate the transmission locking pawl as a possible suspect is to do the following:
1) Drive the car into the desired parking position.
2) With the car still in gear (forward or reverse, does not matter), engage the foot-operated parking brake.
3) Remove your other foot from the main brake pedal. The car will probably move one inch or so forward or backward.
4) When the car stops moving, THEN put the transmission shift lever in PARK.
The next morning, start the car, and move the transmission lever out of PARK before releasing the parking brake. If you find it is really easy to move the transmission lever out of PARK when you follow the five steps listed above, then the problem is with the pawl in the transmission itself. If you still have difficulty moving the shift lever out of PARK, then the problem is most likely with the Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid, not the actual transmission. Below you will find a picture that shows where the N376 Ignition Switch Key Lock Solenoid is located. It is easy to get at this part. Just follow the dis-assembly instructions shown on the Retrofitting Keyless Start to North American Phaetons post, then, with the engine running, see if the locking pin moves freely and completely in and out of the solenoid when you put your foot on the brake, and see if it freely and easily slides back out (into the locked position) when you take your foot off the brake. If there is any binding or hesitation in the movement of the locking pin, look for evidence of something that would be interfering with the free movement of the pin - for example, spilled Coke or coffee, a cable in the way, a dust-ball, or similar. I don't think it is normally necessary to lubricate this pin, and VW does not specify a lubricant, but you could probably give it a light dusting of powdered graphite, just to ensure it moves freely. At the same time, have a look to make sure there is no damage or evidence of binding to the opening in the shift lever assembly that the locking pin fits into when you have the shift lever assembly in PARK.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2292493

Thanks! I was googling on my lunch break, trying to find this exact information. I found the recall, but couldn't find if there was a connection between it and the issue with the shifter. The second quote on diagnosis and repair I searched for but couldn't find. My google-fu is weak.
 
Hey guys I'm wondering how good these Volkswagen Jetta's are. A friend of mine is near retirement, his 401k died, his bank savings died but he still has some money he is looking to invest some savings, in some kind of chauffeurs town car service in Hyderabad India. I am already suspicious because I heard bureaucracy in India is crazy and so is the traffic, but it's a good business deal and the Volkswagen Jetta's are selling cheap. Maybe too good to be true?
 
If you are not already a member then please register an account and join in the discussion!

Sign up / Register


Back
Top