Hey All: Yes, I'm taking the plunge....I'm doing it.... I'm going to attempt to do her justice..... Time to build... I've got my limited addition PL 1/350th. Enterprise kit and I popped for the light kit too. Pretty sizable investment to say the least. I plan on building the "Production Version" because to me, that's the version I always loved as a kid. What I'd like to ask here, is for folks who've built the kit to share their pitfalls and cautionary tales. I'll be popping the boxes open on the weekend and planning the build, getting my supplies and paint list together, etc.. * What should I be mindful of? * What should I look out for in terms of problems and pitfalls? * What modifications would you recommend? If the spirt moves me I may bring back a few episodes of Q2UnME's Workbench (tm.) (which is more of a desk in a Bonus Room these days) Your comments would be greatly appreciated.. Q2
My Suggestion is go to the Starship modeler forum, hobbytalk forum and Allscaletrek forums and read the many 1:350 builds that have happened and are happening there's a wealth of information at those forums
I've built it... great kit. The shuttle bay is the biggest PITA.... Getting it to fit and not creating a huge gap in the back. Check your nacelles, struts and neck for warping. My nacelles were warped pretty badly. What lighting kit are you going to use? PL or aftermarket? Also check out scifimodelaction. Great resources there too. Look for builds from me (Red Shirt Guy), Mr.Atoz, MattA and wolf359. Check out channel "Trekworks" on youtube. The guy has many build vids up on the PL 1/350 TOS and PL 1/350 refit.
I know a lot of people had trouble jamming the shuttle bay in with the wiring, but I must have done' something right 'cause mine went together fine. I had to squeeze and clamp it really good, mind you, but it didn't fight too hard. http://www.inpayne.com/models/pltoselit1.html
I purchased the PL light kit on Amazon. Got the best price and I figured it would be the simplest way to light the model. I've heard good things about the light kit and wanted the rotating bussards and blinking nav lights. I've lit models before, but this will be my first time with LED's. I figured everything I would need is in the kit and would eliminate hunting for supplies... Thanks for everyones feed back so far! Q2
The light kit is good, but the snap-connectors are crap. Half my saucer lights went out after I finished the model. Some people suggest removing the connectors and soldering the strips together.
Are you referring to the connectors that are suppose to link the LED strips together? I figured I'd snap them together, test fit, then hit them with some hot glue to keep them from coming back apart. - OR - are your referring to the connector plugs that plug into the circuit boards? I figured those would get the hot glue treatment too to keep them from coming apart when assembled.
I'm referring to the connectors that snap the LED strips together. I did in fact hot glue mine together and to the model, and I still lost half the saucer lights. Very frustrating. The connectors to the circuit boards are perfectly secure, though.
Problem #3 (so far) .... Model Masters Canadian Voo Doo Grey is discontinued, since 2012. Polar Lights Color scheme (from their web page) has not been updated with an alternate. I found what I think might be an offset using the Federal Standard #, though I've never heard of the paint brand before. What have you folks who've completed the model done as an altenative? Q2
^ I know, Forbin sets the build bar very high. I just hope I can pull even 80% of what he accomplished. I want this model to be the center piece of my office. So very fearful I'll botch it.. Q2
Hey, thanks, but compared to some of geniuses on HobbyTalk and Starship Modeler, I'm... average. ish.
The only thing that bothers me about that kit is the molded grid lines on the saucer. Other than that it could pass for the 11 foot model. :/
There was much discussion on the grid lines during the design process. Gary Kerr was convinced that, since they were drawn on the saucer, they were meant to be there as panel lines. He and PL tried to impress on the Chinese mold makers that they be as thin and faint as possible, so they'd be easy for a modeler to fill if he wanted. I personally don't think they succeeded - I've seen MUCH finer engraved lines on model kits. That said, my preference is for engraved grid lines. I could never get the decals on the saucer aligned properly without them as a guide.