One word - "difficult"!!!!
2 words - VERY difficult!
Here it is, docked beside my Eaglemoss starship:
I've always loved the shape of the starships in the Trek movies and have a fondness for the Grissom. The only way I could get a decent sized model of this, was from "Warp 2." Thsi was my first ever resin build. It took a long while to sand and file away at the mould joints, to make smooth. Thsi involved many hours of work, for only a relativley small area. I was using a file and sandpaper to rub.
I did as much pre-gluing as possible before spray painting. I used a can of primer from the pound store. This took 3 coats! I then used Tamiya spray "flat white" - 2 cans, which is loads more than a much larger plastic model kit, like the Reliant, and then clear gloss. I then used normal Tamiya flat paint in the pots to colour the various gull parts.
By far, teh bit I was dreading was the assembly of the warp pylons from the saucer section onto the secondary hull. I did this by turnign teh model upside down and using some wood blocks to support everything as perpindicular as possible. This was not easy. I did not like using the superglue either, as "strings" formed which were difficult to get rid of. I felt rushed into gettign everything stuck in place. After 24hrs, it cured. Alas, there was a slight sag.
However, when photographed and displayed from above, oiit looks good!
The decals were really easy to apply. (Phew!).
Alas, the model did not come with a display stand. I had some spare oak skirting board wood, so cut that, and wood stained it dark brown. I used an old shower head holder and screwed it into the wood, as I needed a semi-circular shape to hold the round secondary hull.
In summary, I would tackel another resin model, but I woudl need to think carefully about it, such that it would not have complicated glue joints, like warp engine pylons! Maybe a steamrunner class.
My questions to you guys on how to improve:
1. Shoudl I have drilled a hole in the secondary saucer to insert a brass rod etc to hold it? Is drilling resin easy, and could I use a normal hand electric drill, or is it a pillar drill job?
2. Can you buy display model stands anywhere?
3. How do you "sand" the superglue, to make flat? It was very porus, so I put pvu glue over it to cover the holes.....
Any other tips on resin?
Finally, voila, it's place in the collection:
2 words - VERY difficult!
Here it is, docked beside my Eaglemoss starship:
I've always loved the shape of the starships in the Trek movies and have a fondness for the Grissom. The only way I could get a decent sized model of this, was from "Warp 2." Thsi was my first ever resin build. It took a long while to sand and file away at the mould joints, to make smooth. Thsi involved many hours of work, for only a relativley small area. I was using a file and sandpaper to rub.
I did as much pre-gluing as possible before spray painting. I used a can of primer from the pound store. This took 3 coats! I then used Tamiya spray "flat white" - 2 cans, which is loads more than a much larger plastic model kit, like the Reliant, and then clear gloss. I then used normal Tamiya flat paint in the pots to colour the various gull parts.
By far, teh bit I was dreading was the assembly of the warp pylons from the saucer section onto the secondary hull. I did this by turnign teh model upside down and using some wood blocks to support everything as perpindicular as possible. This was not easy. I did not like using the superglue either, as "strings" formed which were difficult to get rid of. I felt rushed into gettign everything stuck in place. After 24hrs, it cured. Alas, there was a slight sag.
However, when photographed and displayed from above, oiit looks good!The decals were really easy to apply. (Phew!).
Alas, the model did not come with a display stand. I had some spare oak skirting board wood, so cut that, and wood stained it dark brown. I used an old shower head holder and screwed it into the wood, as I needed a semi-circular shape to hold the round secondary hull.
In summary, I would tackel another resin model, but I woudl need to think carefully about it, such that it would not have complicated glue joints, like warp engine pylons! Maybe a steamrunner class.
My questions to you guys on how to improve:
1. Shoudl I have drilled a hole in the secondary saucer to insert a brass rod etc to hold it? Is drilling resin easy, and could I use a normal hand electric drill, or is it a pillar drill job?
2. Can you buy display model stands anywhere?
3. How do you "sand" the superglue, to make flat? It was very porus, so I put pvu glue over it to cover the holes.....
Any other tips on resin?
Finally, voila, it's place in the collection:
