Men's Fashion Advice Needed: Navy Suit and Brown Shoes

[Alidar Jarok]

Since I wear a suit every day, I've realized that my current two suits (one black, one light gray) is becoming increasingly untenable. Because of that, I went out and got a new suit - with a choice between charcoal and navy, I decided to go with navy. Unfortunately, no pictures to show the exact color because it's being tailored right now.

Now I've seen some debate about this. Apparently the traditional rule is to never wear brown shoes with a navy suit. But I've also heard the opposite (i.e., only wear brown shoes with a navy suit). Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, would they be dark brown or more of a light brown?

In addition, since I'm very much on a budget, I was thinking the brown shoes would work well with my light gray suit. But I'm wondering if a different shade of brown works better with light gray?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Finn]

PM Holdfast

 

[iguana_tonante]

Brown and blue usually don't work together. Keyword is "usually".

This is the exception. Black shoes on a navy suit are ok. Brown shoes on a navy suit are snazzy (keep them dark brown, tho). (Oxblood shoes on a navy suit are fantastic, but a tad challenging.)

If you want to be conservative but snazzy, you need dark brown shoes for your navy suit, and light brown shoes for your light grey suit. But I'd wager a medium brown would work with both without too much fuss.

Also, a black suit on the job is a bit gloomy. Use it sparingly. (Except if you go for the Reservoir Dogs look.)

I really understand being on a budget, but three suits for work are stretching it. I don't know the level of formality on your job, but are blazers allowed? A formal blazer could work with your suit trousers, and expand your wardrobe immensely.

Also, accessories like ties, shirt patterns, and even pocket squares would really make a difference, and not look like you are going to work with the same clothes everyday.

 

[Mr. Laser Beam]

"Did you ever get the feeling that the world was a tuxedo and you were a pair of brown shoes?" - George Gobel

 

[Sector 7]

"Proper" (YMMV) dress etiquette is that brown shoes are acceptable for day wear, not for night wear. I agree with Iguana that, when you can afford it cordovan shoes and belt look very sharp with a Navy blue suit.

Also, always make sure shoes and belt match: black with black, etc. Shades of brown should also match, for that look of success.

 

[Relayer1]

Since I wear a suit every day, I've realized that my current two suits (one black, one light gray) is becoming increasingly untenable. Because of that, I went out and got a new suit - with a choice between charcoal and navy, I decided to go with navy. Unfortunately, no pictures to show the exact color because it's being tailored right now.

Now I've seen some debate about this. Apparently the traditional rule is to never wear brown shoes with a navy suit. But I've also heard the opposite (i.e., only wear brown shoes with a navy suit). Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, would they be dark brown or more of a light brown?

In addition, since I'm very much on a budget, I was thinking the brown shoes would work well with my light gray suit. But I'm wondering if a different shade of brown works better with light gray?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Two simple rules -

1. Never wear brown shoes with any suit that is black, blue or grey.
2. Never wear any suit that you could wear brown shoes with.

 

[Velocity]

black or brown shoes aren't as important as shoes that are polished and in good repair.

 

[iguana_tonante]

Two simple rules -

1. Never wear brown shoes with any suit that is black, blue or grey.
2. Never wear any suit that you could wear brown shoes with.

I most vigorously disagree, on counts of both rules. You will pry my tan linen suit from my cold, dead, manicured hands.

 

[1001001]

I am the worst dresser on the planet, and even I know you don't wear brown shoes with...well, anything!



Conservative black shoes go with everything.

 

[iguana_tonante]

Especially with boring.

 

[Melakon]

I think Iguana's advice should automatically get 25 bonus points when evaluating the answers, because Italians do seem to know a lot about fashion standards. I however, have the kind of fashion sense of wearing a blue tie with a red flannel shirt.

 

[iguana_tonante]

Nah, it's just a matter of different tastes and different fashions.

Menswear, even when arguably formal, gets to be a little more... flamboyant on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea.

 

[Alidar Jarok]

PM Holdfast

I actually thought about just PMing him instead of starting the thread. But, sadly, it's been awhile since he's posted.

Also, a black suit on the job is a bit gloomy. Use it sparingly. (Except if you go for the Reservoir Dogs look.)

Part of the reason to get more suits is so I can transition from my black suit to a charcoal suit. The advice usually given is black suits are great, if you're going to a funeral. Still, I tend to like the look of the black suit. I think its gloominess is overstated.

If you want to be conservative but snazzy, you need dark brown shoes for your navy suit, and light brown shoes for your light grey suit. But I'd wager a medium brown would work with both without too much fuss.

Before I started this thread, I figured the best answer is light brown shoes for one suit, dark brown for another. But I doubt I'm going to be able to do that any time soon. Still, I wonder if medium brown ends up being the worst of both worlds instead of the best.

I really understand being on a budget, but three suits for work are stretching it. I don't know the level of formality on your job, but are blazers allowed? A formal blazer could work with your suit trousers, and expand your wardrobe immensely.

Formality is weird. Lawyers, particularly lawyers who appear in court, are expected to be very formal. But, for some reason, criminal defense attorneys seem to be able to get away with toning it down a bit (possibly because they aren't paid very well, relatively speaking). Given that, I could get away with a blazer and khakis if I really wanted to. I just have some problems with it because it helps contribute to the reputation of Public Defenders as lesser attorneys.

 

[Melakon]

Alidar, would you be able to declare a new suit as a tax deduction if bought and worn only for professional business reasons? Just thinking about your budget comment.

 

[Alidar Jarok]

Possibly. I don't know enough about tax law to know for sure so I'd have to look into it. Still, January 2 is a particularly bad time to buy something and write it off on ones taxes. My concern is more about cash on hand (it's admittedly a manageable expense, but it's still a large expense to spend all at once). Also, I'm not sure I'd only wear it for professional business reasons.

 

[Melakon]

Maybe as your career builds then, it was just a sudden thought since entertainers sometimes do that. Best wishes for a successful 2015.

 

[iguana_tonante]

PM Holdfast

I actually thought about just PMing him instead of starting the thread. But, sadly, it's been awhile since he's posted.

I appreciate that you started it. We need more threads about fashion!

Still, I tend to like the look of the black suit. I think its gloominess is overstated.

I like black suits, too, but it's not easy to pull them off. Add a charcoal shirt and a skinny black tie, you'll be the star of the court.

Still, I wonder if medium brown ends up being the worst of both worlds instead of the best.

Hard to say without seeing the colours in person. However, you can avoid the pitfall of mousy brown by trying a slightly off colour, like the aforementioned oxblood or cordovan.

Formality is weird. Lawyers, particularly lawyers who appear in court, are expected to be very formal. But, for some reason, criminal defense attorneys seem to be able to get away with toning it down a bit (possibly because they aren't paid very well, relatively speaking). Given that, I could get away with a blazer and khakis if I really wanted to. I just have some problems with it because it helps contribute to the reputation of Public Defenders as lesser attorneys.

Yeah, I can see your reason. Personally, I would try to avoid that idea by adding some vibrant colour to the ensemble, like a quirky pocket square, to emphasize "I wear it because I like it, not because I have to". But I can see the point of erring on the side of formality, in this case.

 

[urbandefault]

In the early 80s I came across a well-used paperback copy of Dress For Success, when I was in a position to need the information. It was a bit dated then, even moreso now, but I found a lot of good advice in it.

For conservative dress I'd go with cordovan (plain or wing tip) or black shoes (plain) with a blue suit. Black socks, or match to the suit. No loafers with a suit.

With a blazer and contrasting slacks, loafers are fine. The classic penny loafers are classic for a reason. I tend to match the socks to the slacks, but matching to the blazer is ok too.

Shirts? A spread collar works with a 2 or 3 button suit coat, but only a point collar with a double breasted coat. With a blazer I like a pinpoint oxford, but other collar styles work too.

Ties: With a conservative suit, a rep (striped) tie is classic, as is a small polka dot or muted paisley. Silk used to be the only acceptable fabric for a tie, but there are very nice manmade fabrics these days that do the job nicely. The trend is to mismatch the tie and pocket square, but when in doubt a solid white square is perfect. When in doubt, leave it out.

I've gone on much longer here than I intended, but that happens sometimes.

One thing I learned from that book that I've never been able to pass on until now: If you get "hat hair," don't wear a hat.

 

[Tora Ziyal]

Alidar, would you be able to declare a new suit as a tax deduction if bought and worn only for professional business reasons? Just thinking about your budget comment.

Possibly. I don't know enough about tax law to know for sure so I'd have to look into it. Still, January 2 is a particularly bad time to buy something and write it off on ones taxes. My concern is more about cash on hand (it's admittedly a manageable expense, but it's still a large expense to spend all at once). Also, I'm not sure I'd only wear it for professional business reasons.

I looked this up a few years ago because a coworker was (incorrectly) convinced that we could deduct our work clothes....

Uniforms are deductible if they are a condition of employment and if they are not appropriate for personal use. That's it. Other work clothes such as a lawyer's business suit or a server's black trousers and white shirt are not deductible because you can wear them elsewhere, even if you don't.

 

[urbandefault]

Alidar, would you be able to declare a new suit as a tax deduction if bought and worn only for professional business reasons? Just thinking about your budget comment.

Possibly. I don't know enough about tax law to know for sure so I'd have to look into it. Still, January 2 is a particularly bad time to buy something and write it off on ones taxes. My concern is more about cash on hand (it's admittedly a manageable expense, but it's still a large expense to spend all at once). Also, I'm not sure I'd only wear it for professional business reasons.

I looked this up a few years ago because a coworker was (incorrectly) convinced that we could deduct our work clothes....

Uniforms are deductible if they are a condition of employment and if they are not appropriate for personal use. That's it. Other work clothes such as a lawyer's business suit or a server's black trousers and white shirt are not deductible because you can wear them elsewhere, even if you don't.

Exactly right.

Shoes and socks would not be deductible for that reason, as would accessories such as a tie or pocket square. And hats.