1/350 TOS ENTERPRISE

[Psion]

Oh yes, I've got mine, but I'm not sharing ... not even pictures, you poor r-r-r-rubes!



Kit #136.

[Forbin]

Recording ship arrival, Dear.

[Q2UnME]

Mine arrived today (this evening)! The first impression was "Boy, this sucker is heavy"! and "The box is the standard kit box with just a sticker"!?!

Not sure if I want to open it or not.....

Q2UnME

[Q2UnME]

Psion wrote:

---

Oh yes, I've got mine, but I'm not sharing ... not even pictures, you poor r-r-r-rubes!



Kit #136.

Where did you find the kit number? UPC code?

Q2

[Psion]

Q2UnME wrote:

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Where did you find the kit number? UPC code?

Q2

In the decal pack, there should be a certificate that thanks you for participating in the 1701 club. In the bottom, right corner it'll read "This certifies that this kit is # _____ of 1701."

It's kind of classy and I intend to frame it and mount it on the wall under the model when I'm finished.

[Psion]

I got off my lazy rump and took a couple pictures:

First, here's the certificate that shows the kit number:


I'm very glad I didn't get kit #1017, otherwise I'd have a compulsion to build the Constellation.

Here's a comparison of three different saucers:


The top is the Polar Lights 1:1000 scale kit. Beneath that is an AMT model I stopped work on 15 years ago -- I found tools I'd lost in that box! Underneath all that is the 1:350 scale saucer.

[Albertese]

Glorious!

--Alex

[Q2UnME]

The worst part of this is fighting the temptation to open my kit and nose around at all the parts. The second worse part of this is now having to convince Mrs.Q2 that $140 for the light kit and $40 for the photetched parts are a necessity and a bargin to boot!

Q2

[Forbin]

Oh, open it, it's a model. It's meant to be built.

DO EEEEEET!!!!

[Q2UnME]

Forbin wrote:

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Oh, open it, it's a model. It's meant to be built.

DO EEEEEET!!!!

From the man who's going to kitbash his....

You want my extra parts?

Q2

PS: See them going for $1000 USD on Sleez-Bay

[Psion]

I'm trying to decide if I want to keep the grid lines or not. I've always like the idea of them, even if their implementation has always been flawed. Given that it has windows on the port side and other details missing from the original studio model, I'm happy with the idea that this is an interpretation of the Enterprise and not necessarily a perfect replica of one of the shooting models.

If I do keep the lines, at the very least I'll remove them where they trace over the triangular hatches on the underside and the rectangular patches over engineering. I also think the space around the ventral dome should be free of radial lines up to the first circular grid.

I'm also thinking of shifting the turbolift so that it lines up with the Bridge interior detail.

[Forbin]

Psion wrote:

---

I'm trying to decide if I want to keep the grid lines or not. I've always like the idea of them, even if their implementation has always been flawed. Given that it has windows on the port side and other details missing from the original studio model, I'm happy with the idea that this is an interpretation of the Enterprise and not necessarily a perfect replica of one of the shooting models.

This is exactly the philosophy expressed by the Round 2 production staff in their email updates and discussions at hobbyTalk.

If I do keep the lines, at the very least I'll remove them where they trace over the triangular hatches on the underside and the rectangular patches over engineering. I also think the space around the ventral dome should be free of radial lines up to the first circular grid.

For the record, Gary Kerr (the kit's designer and researcher) said the full-sized filming model had the grid lines drawn right over those panels.

I'm also thinking of shifting the turbolift so that it lines up with the Bridge interior detail.

Anarchist!

[publiusr]

Psion wrote:

---

I got off my lazy rump and took a couple pictures:



Here's a comparison of three different saucers:


The top is the Polar Lights 1:1000 scale kit. Beneath that is an AMT model I stopped work on 15 years ago -- I found tools I'd lost in that box! Underneath all that is the 1:350 scale saucer.

Now, wouldn't it be a hoot to actually build one that way? With the little 1/537 or whatever bridge atop that huge 1/350 saucer?

I've often wondered about layering saucers from smallest offerening to biggest, only slicing and dicing a bit as the B/C decks get layered atop each other separately, then atop inlaid saucers.

I'd like to see a drawing of what that might look like, just for fun. I just wish Kerr's blueprints had been part of the kit.

[Forbin]

I just slid mine together with rubber bands and tape, and the sucker is SOLID! Thick, heavy plastic; deep, firm tab-in-slot connections. She'll never sag.

[Psion]

Ah, good! I was beginning to wonder if I should rig up a brass armature for the secondary hull to nacelles.

What do you make of those plastic tabs along the edge of nacelle part 35 (the inside half of the nacelle)? I want to cut them off, but they almost look like intentional spacers.

[furrows brow]

Maybe I should read the instructions.