Eh, I was okay with "Counterpoint". The captain ended up getting Kashyk back at the end anyway. The captain never did get much action when you compare her to 1) other captains and 2) other female Trek characters. If anything, the fact that she was female and didn't succumb to romance easily (unlike females in TNG/DS9/TOS) made her one of the least victims of sexist writing.
Definitely not as sexist as Uhura's uniform being so short she had to wear red underwear because you could literally see her butt all the time. Granted, it was a product of the '60s. Still more sexist nonetheless.
The classical music in "Counterpoint" wasn't solely to set the mood. The term "counterpoint" is a musical term relating to two strong countering melodies being played together (allegorically: Janeway and Kashyk).