I truly don't know what to make of the episode.
On a superficial level, I enjoyed the heck out of it. In the moment, it was great.
Beyond the superficial, it was a schizophrenic mess. I totally would have believed that RTD had written this, because the magic disappears with the least little bit of thought.
There are some genuinely Moffat moments -- the Doctor in the monastery (which doesn't make any more sense than the Doctor's exile to the 19th-century in "The Snowmen"), the Doctor putting Clara to bed and being a daffy Tim Burton character outside her window.
But then it's set-piece after set-piece. Occasionally it's creepy and chilling, but then the ending felt a bit flat.
The Doctor in lust is an interesting angle, and one that I wonder how the other writers will develop.
I'm glad Doctor Who
is back. I wish this episode were a little deeper, and while I'm looking forward to Neil Cross' episode next week, it does look like it owes a bit to "The Beast Below."