I'm one of those crazy Klingon fans so I really liked this one. I especially like the look into Martok's backstory more than anything else.
I can get bored with Klingon episodes pretty quickly, but I've always really liked this one. Martok is awesome, there are some interesting dimensions added to Klingon lore, and I've always liked how the Klingons break out into song at the end.
I wish we had seen more of this Quark than the greedy misogynist he often is.
I wish we'd seen more of it, too. Quark is a character that could have been handled much better as the show evolved over time, imo. He's a real strength of the show in the early going because he works so well as part of the ensemble cast, but as the show started to focus more on smaller chunks of the cast, he tended to get shafted a bit. Vic Fontaine's emergence didn't help either.
In retrospect, I think a better choice overall would have been to stay away from developing the Ferengi culture, or trying to use them for slapstick comedy, and instead focusing on making Quark the show's wry or cynical commentator on human nature. He has some great moments in the later seasons when he is doing this, but they tend to be a little brief.