I love this one. I like how we see Sisko fighting to regain what he seemed pretty happy to give up at the start of the episode. His path towards total acceptance of his Emmisary role is well on its way by the end.
I even enjoyed the look at how far Kira and the other Bajorans were willing to go to preserve their religion. Sense won out in the end, but it was a clear message that people were willing to do anything that the ridiculous caste system suggested. The perfect test for Sisko, really. He can't just sit by and let everything do to hell.