Death/Return was one of the things that got me into comics, and I still think its a great story (I haven't read it recently though). To my nostalgic mind it remains the best BIG Superman story; what other epic Supes story has there been since? There's the Imperiex War which had some great elements but also a lot of dead weight.'
My favorite part was actually the Return segment with all the different Supes running around, it was so cool when they would crossover. And I was totally shocked when the Cyborg betrayed them all. The destruction of Coast City was pretty shocking at the time.